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Thread: Rebuilding my J-spec engine.
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Draggin_2600i
Redlining
Posts: 235
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posted September 10, 2002 02:22 PM |
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Rebuilding my J-spec engine.
WOO HOO! I am finally getting my j-spec T2 engine. I wanted to know how hard it would be to rebuild this engine. It would be the first time I rebuild a rotary. I have my mind set on doing it and I wanted to ger some pointers from you guys since alot of you are experienced in rotaries already.
what precautions should I take and what things would I look for incase stuff needs to be replaced?
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rotarynews
Moderator
Too Many Rotary Websites
Posts: 206
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posted September 10, 2002 02:31 PM |
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Before you start...
You should pick up a copy of the Rotary Engine Rebuild Video. There are many steps you can skip that are on the video...if you don't care too much about exact blueprinting... but it gives you a good idea of what is invloved.
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/enginevideo.htm
once you've watched in a few times, order your parts... most places are the same on the web in terms of prices for rebuild kits. Ebay is a cheap source if you're on a budget, but you have to be lucky (ie, someone has to sell a kit at the time you need it, plus you need to not be outbid)
Atkins and Mazdatrix, are my main sources.. there are MANY MANY others though.
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*mazdarepu.com
The best way to predict the future is to invent it!
-- Tom Matano
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Draggin_2600i
Redlining
Posts: 235
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posted September 11, 2002 08:04 AM |
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Thanks for the info. I guess I will purchase the video next week then.
Roughly how long would it take to reassemble once all the parts are ready and I have all the seals and gaskets. I ask because the truck is at my buddy's body shop and I can only go there on the weekends cause of work and school.
Are there any tools that may ease the rebuild process?
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted September 11, 2002 09:42 AM |
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Depends on your budget...
..I'm not Mr. experience, but , yes, there are tools--everything from the flywheel nut puller/wrench, to proper calipers and dial indicators w./ magnetic base, to a truly straight straightedge, not to mention a proper engine stand adapter. It's my understanding that careful and thorough cleaning, inspection, and measuring are key. Also, if your side housings need reworked, they must be lapped to the proper surface, not ground! Various sources indicate vaseline is their choice for holding all the seals in place during dis/assembly. It appears to be crucial all seals & springs are retained in their proper places. Bear in mind some springs need to not be put in backwards! Other good background info might be one of the Racing Beat 'catalog & technical' manuals--not to mention a genuine Mazda factory shop manual--even if it's not for the exact motor you've got. I'd get all the manuals possible, then cross-reference. I'd aslso take my time--being in a hurry never helps. Best of luck!
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Rotor
Revvin Up
certifiable rotorhead
Posts: 70
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posted September 14, 2002 09:01 PM |
Edited By: Rotor on 24 Sep 2002 19:44
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quote: Roughly how long would it take to reassemble once all the parts are ready and I have all the seals and gaskets.
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The best race engine I ever had was assembled in about 45 minutes.On Thursday afternoon. Friday afternoon, we were travelling to the first of eleven straight wins in SCCA competition. I ruined it by over reving it, to maybe 13,000 rpm? (!) My bad. :-( That engine set event records that still haven't been beat!!!
But every thing has to be totally ready!. Everything spec'd out, everything clean! Super clean! Use Vaseline to hold rotor seals in place. Rotors should be pre built. I use a Permatex white sealant on my water o'rings. I'll try to look and post the number of the sealer tomorrow. And it has to be clean!
Follow the instructions in the manual, and you should be good to go. If you have the opportunity, take a couple engines apart first to learn what's up. It's not hard to do, just follow the procedures. Just make sure it's clean!
BTW, did I mention it needs to be clean?
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ROTOR
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted September 15, 2002 08:37 AM |
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Rotor--Do you prefer carbon apex seals? Word has it they achieve superior compression, (nevermind saving housings when they go)... also been told some folks lap right thru the later 'nitrided' surface on the plates, right into the softer-than-oldschool metal, in search of superior sealing (at the expense of longevity, of course)...what are your thoughts? BTW, I'm sure I'm not alone in appreciating every and any bit of engine stacking advice...Thank You!
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Rotor
Revvin Up
certifiable rotorhead
Posts: 70
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posted September 24, 2002 07:42 PM |
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Carbon Seals
I like em for race engines! For street use it's a toss up. The carbon seals wear quicker, but are more forgiving to the housings. I guess it depends on what you are working with. If your rotor housings have any wear, I wouldn't use carbon seals.
JMHO
Rotor
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ROTOR
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