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Thread: 20b into an repu
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted June 10, 2003 05:30 PM |
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If you decide to run the engine 'as-is'...
...and if it's still basically sound and 'good', (remember, turbo motors tend to have a lower compression spec to begin with, generally), you might want to do the AmSoil Power Foam treatment. That stuff'll clean every last bit of carbon right outta there! The motor has to be totally installed, functioning, and tuned right... then, when it's all ready to run, (and you've run & driven to full operating temp), --and everything but the carbon is dialed-- spray a whole can of it into your intake, while it's at high idle, until it chokes out on it, and proceed to empty the can into the intake completely. Wait until it dissipates, don your full-face respirator with the proper cartridges, and fire that sucker up. You'll be amazed. Your neighbors will be appalled. I't'll put out the biggest, nastiest black cloud ever. Do not shut off the car!!! Get in, and take it immediately on a 50 to 500 mile freeway road trip. It will run better and better for the first 500 miles! Your motor will love you...and you'll love your new motor! (I'm not an AmSoil dealer, but I've experienced the results of this stuff, and it's as amazing for de-carboning and totally cleaning out a used rotary as their most excellent gear lube is for old mazda rearends and trannies...) Gotta love it!
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted June 10, 2003 09:20 PM |
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Wow! You sold me on the Power Foam. So it has to already be in running condition? Ok, I'll remember that. Good info.
I just got done 'treating' the 20B with MMO. I've never actually used this stuff before. At first I poured some into the Leading plug holes. This was basically for my information, so I can learn how to do it if I ever get an engine that needs it, and I don't have easy access to the intake or exhaust ports. I already removed the intake and rat's nest a little earlier (fun, heh, right). I totally love the huge secondary ports of a 20B. I think they're the biggest mazda ever made, on the manifold side that is. On the rotor side, I know I could port them even taller if I wanted to. Anyway, it made squirting MMO really easy. I think I gave all three rotors enough MMO for all the apex seals to get a decent amount. I cranked the engine by hand on the flex plate with the plugs in, and it was pretty hard. Lots of MMO mist was eminating from the ports. I know it's from the hightened compression from having liquid in the engine, but still it was cool to see (not so cool to breath though, ahem). I'll let it sit over night and crank it some more in the morning. I'll try to leave it in for 48 hours, like most ATF users recommend, with periodic cranking. Personally, I wouldn't use ATF as a decarbonator, but that's a whole 'nother subject.
So what would you use on a broken stud? Any suggestions?
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted June 13, 2003 10:19 AM |
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It's been longer than 48 hours. I've also decided against installing the 20B in my REPU. I'd rather not cut it up. Instead, I'll be installing a half bridgeport in it as soon as the engine is built.
If anyone else wants to install a 20B in their REPU, be my guest. Who knows? Maybe I'll do one in my REPU some day? But for now, it's going into my 13B GLC. I've got a fresh roll of film. I'll take pics of the swap. :)
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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