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Thread: got the motor pulled on my REPU
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 06, 2004 08:49 AM |
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got the motor pulled on my REPU
got the motor out yesterday.. took it up to the hobby shop here on base, got it pulled in less than 3 hours, got everything bagged and labeled too... figured out what went wrong, at least 1 thing... 1 apex seal on the rear rotor... i'll be taking pictures today and posting em later tonight
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 06, 2004 09:57 AM |
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Did you get a good look at the front or rear plates?
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 06, 2004 02:44 PM |
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it says R5 on both end plates, so yes its R5... the rear housing and rotor are ruined, it broke one seal, cracked another in half, and stuck the other by messing up the metal on the rotor... pretty nasty... i'll post pics later.... hopefully week after next i'll be able to get it all back together, just gotta talk to atkins see how much a rotor is gonna cost... the front looks ok, theres some chrome chippage on the housing, the rotor is in superb shape... the springs for the apex seals would have needed replacing, they didn't do much to keep the apex seals against the housing... i sandblasted the plates, gonna paint em black.... sand blasted that nasty yellow racing beat intake manifold, gonna paint it black too... gonna have the housings chrome, i think thats the normal color atkins paints em
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 06, 2004 04:25 PM |
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Remember to inspect your oil pump.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 06, 2004 05:15 PM |
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quote:
Remember to inspect your oil pump.
was in good shape, and here come the pics...
this ones for jeff;)
center plate is in good shape, the step wear isn't too bad
e shaft is in great shape, looks almost brand new
the front housing is worn out, definately needs replacing
front plate much like the center plate...
front rotor is in great shape, just needs to be cleaned up, and the springs for the apex seals need replacing
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 06, 2004 05:17 PM |
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yes the rear housing is scary... its screwed....
rear plate, much like the center and front...
ack
ack x 2
ack ^ 2
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 06, 2004 11:15 PM |
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R5 :)
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 09, 2004 10:37 PM |
 Edited By: brad on 9 Mar 2004 22:40 |
those are some nice sized intake ports
definately not stock. been ported. looks like the mazdatrix style intake port with the flat top. Keepers!
i bet that motor burnt a lot of oil. rotors have lots of thick black oil on them. let us know how the rebuild goes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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rotarydave
Hauling
Posts: 108
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posted March 10, 2004 05:03 AM |
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Actually if I remember correctly the REPUs are supposed to have r5 end plates and the nice thing about r5s is exactly what you see the largest stock intake port.
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 10, 2004 06:10 AM |
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quote:
Actually if I remember correctly the REPUs are supposed to have r5 end plates and the nice thing about r5s is exactly what you see the largest stock intake port.
lol those aren't stock;)
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 10, 2004 06:12 AM |
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quote:
definately not stock. been ported. looks like the mazdatrix style intake port with the flat top. Keepers!
i bet that motor burnt a lot of oil. rotors have lots of thick black oil on them. let us know how the rebuild goes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
when i pulled the motor apart i realized that Tom had wired the OMP wide open, instead of making a linkage to hook it up to what looks like a lever that was intended for the OMP on the holley carb...
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 10, 2004 10:49 AM |
Edited By: Jeff20B on 10 Mar 2004 10:52
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Nitrided R5 side plates are JDM only as far as I know. Stock REPU plates were a different casting that was not nitrided. Besides, those ports in the pictures above are larger anyway.
Yeah, you'll need to order one from RB, and possibly a choke tube (the copper tube that wraps around the header). There was an old 13B carb lever rod on there bent to keep the OMP at the 9 o'clock position because it was way too short to work with the Holley carb. You can ask Dan Atkins for his opinion about wiring the OMP to the 9 o'clock position (not fully open). It's what I did on the rebuilt engine in my white REPU. It's working great until I can get a rod on it.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 10, 2004 05:15 PM |
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quote:
Nitrided R5 side plates are JDM only as far as I know. Stock REPU plates were a different casting that was not nitrided. Besides, those ports in the pictures above are larger anyway.
Yeah, you'll need to order one from RB, and possibly a choke tube (the copper tube that wraps around the header). There was an old 13B carb lever rod on there bent to keep the OMP at the 9 o'clock position because it was way too short to work with the Holley carb. You can ask Dan Atkins for his opinion about wiring the OMP to the 9 o'clock position (not fully open). It's what I did on the rebuilt engine in my white REPU. It's working great until I can get a rod on it.
yeah it was probly 9 oclock, i didn't look that hard at it lol... but it was just wire wrapped around
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 12, 2004 12:47 PM |
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I think I have everything I need to rebuild my R5 13B today. How's yours coming?
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 12, 2004 02:54 PM |
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quote:
I think I have everything I need to rebuild my R5 13B today. How's yours coming?
pick up my parts monday
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 12, 2004 08:52 PM |
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quote:
quote:
I think I have everything I need to rebuild my R5 13B today. How's yours coming?
pick up my parts monday
ok ok i lied... my gf lended me the money i needed to get the parts i need, i pay her back tomorrow, picked up everything i needed today... got a new rotor, new springs, new apex seals(i'm dumb i didn't realize that i needed 3 and only had 2mm...) and new bearings for the rotors, as well as those GSL-SE JDM housings... gonna do some painting tomorrow, and do the port work i've been planning, all should go well, i'll take pictures... hopefully finish everything up sunday
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 13, 2004 03:27 AM |
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I don't think the Japanese Domestic Market got the GSL-SE, did it? However, I'm sure they got the engine itself. I think it was in the HC Luce. Does anybody know for sure?
I just finished torquing my tension bolts about 5 minutes ago (as of typing this sentence). You know, the exhaust port size is nagging me right now. Sure, I could have gone larger, but they're the same size as the engine in the white truck. Only the port itself is different because it's the small sleeve '74-'75 style. I'm not sure how these ports will work with the D shape. I also widened the intake ports where the corner seals ride, kinda like your Bruce ports. I guess I could have gone with a larger exhaust port, but again, this engine is for the REPU.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Elysian
Revvin Up
Posts: 60
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posted March 13, 2004 09:01 AM |
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i just picked up all the dremel stuff i need to do the ports, as well as the high temp. black to paint the plates... bout to get started after i hop in the shower and change, wish me luck, i think tomorrow i will be doing final assembly on the motor and install
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 13, 2004 10:58 AM |
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If you don't get dusty, you're not working hard enough. :)
I'll recheck the torque on the tension bolts today because hylomar flows a little over time. I used it on the legs of the rotor housings and vaseline on the water seals. Then I've got to choose between three thrust plates and a couple torrington bearings.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted March 14, 2004 10:08 PM |
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I actually overtorqued the tension bolts by a couple foot pounds. I went up to 30 with my beam style torque wrench, but it felt a little too tight when I tried to turn the engine by hand so I backed them all off to around 20 and retorqued them to 25 and rotated the engine again. It felt better. Then I went up to 27 and rotated it again. It still felt good. Then to make sure the clicker-type torque wrench was doing its job, I set it to 27.5 and tried again. Only two moved a little. The rest just clicked it. This is the fisrt time I've tried the clicker type of torque wrench, by the way. It seems within about a half a foot pound from my beam type. I'm satisfied.
My Cosmo FSM says to torque tension bolts from 23 to 27 foot pounds. My rotor housings are old so I went up to 27.5.
I'm going to clean and inspect an old REPU flywheel tomorrow. I'll also try to get all the guts under the front cover finished.
How's it going, Elysian?
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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