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Thread: HELP !! HELP !! PLEASE HELP !!
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FTM
Newbie
Posts: 2
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posted November 04, 2008 02:53 PM |
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HELP !! HELP !! PLEASE HELP !!
I have a 1993 Mazda B2200 Pick up, 5 speed, fuel injected, that I just acquired. I thought everything was fine after replacing the front brakes. I drove it around town several times and everything seemed great.
I drove it to work on the interstate 45 miles at 65 to 75 mph and it is overheating and boiling over thru the overflow canister. I thought okay, the truck has been sitiing for quite some time it probably needs a thermostat replaced. I replaced the thermostat and it is still overheating.
I can drive it along at 45 mph and it runs a little warm but it does not overheat. It can sit and idle and runs at normal operating temperature.
I bought a new water pump but haven't replaced it yet. I thought I would ask some of the wrenches on here where I should start first before tearing in and replacing a water pump that I'm not totally sure is bad. Fan clutch?
It does not dump any water out the exhaust. There is not white smoke coming out of the exhaust either. No foul smell. The oil looks fine. No milky color to it and no milky look in the oil filler cap either.
I REALLY APPRECIATE ANY AND ALL HELP !This is going to be my daily driver.
Thanks!
Fred
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ovquick
Redlining
Posts: 253
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posted November 04, 2008 05:07 PM |
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overheating
There is always the, tried and true, poor boy method of running with the heater on full blast, You have to keep enough window open so you don't roast if the outside temp is on the warm side. The heater will get rid of a lot of engine heat.
If that controls the problem, it might be the radiator needs to be cleaned out, possibly tanks removed and rodded to get the flow back up, could be the lower hose collapsing and cutting down on the water flow too.
And, check the water flow to make sure the pump actually pumps water, if the flow is down, change it out.
Although it goes "Boing" it still a Mazda.
____________
Manteca Mazda Asylum
where a boy and his cat live, without adult supervision
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FTM
Newbie
Posts: 2
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posted November 04, 2008 08:14 PM |
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I really don't see a lot of current or flow when I look through the radiator neck. I think I'm going to take the radiator out and flush and wash it. Then if that doesn't help I'm going to go ahead and change the pump out.
I guess I shouldn't complain about my $100 truck, huh?
Thanks!
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Klaus45
Redlining
On two wheels
Posts: 218
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posted November 05, 2008 08:49 AM |
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More ideas:
You could always take the thermostat out, and see if that makes for a workable band-aid... but unless your new thermostat is failing to open at the proper temp., that's not your real problem.
Like Orville said, rodding out/replacing your radiator might be in order... so might replacing the radiator cap, (after the system passes a pressure test, as well as a check for hydrocarbons in your cooling system...).
Just because you don't see any water in your oil (yet), and no oil in your coolant (it is coolant and not just tap water, right?), doesn't mean you don't have a head/head gasket issue.
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Hunter
Hauling
Posts: 178
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posted November 05, 2008 06:35 PM |
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thermostat
Almost all Mazdas use a bypass type thermostat. Installing an old type non-bypass thermostat, or leaving out the thermostat entirely will cause eventual overheating in almost every case.
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Klaus45
Redlining
On two wheels
Posts: 218
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posted November 06, 2008 09:10 AM |
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In other words, FTM...
quote:
Almost all Mazdas use a bypass type thermostat. Installing an old type non-bypass thermostat, or leaving out the thermostat entirely will cause eventual overheating in almost every case.
...what Bruce is saying, is look for a 'plunger'-type dealie on your thermostat, designed to open/close a passage.
If your truck required it, and the thermostat you replaced did not have it... you could be looking at a warped head already.
(I was unaware that piston-engine Mazda's also featured those!)
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