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Thread: Engine restoring
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Larry
Newbie
Posts: 3
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posted April 10, 2010 06:07 PM |
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Engine restoring
I have a 1977 REPU in my garage to work on that has 43K original miles on it. It it 100% original and stock.It has been setting for 21 years. I did the usual restore things like complete brake and hydraulic clutch component replacement and as well as the fuel system.However, I haven't a clue what to do with the engine after sitting that many years. Any ideas? The owner wants it left stock.
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blwfly
1st Gear
Posts: 33
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posted April 10, 2010 06:29 PM |
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that is a very very long time for it to sit i would honestly tear the motor down if u havnt started it yet good luck.
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74 repu getting a s4 t2
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted April 10, 2010 09:55 PM |
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What the heck...give it a whirl...
Remove and check spark plugs, if no rust... then
Put a 19 mm socket on the eccentric pully and see if the engine turns and makes compression.
If the coolant and oil looked decent, i'd change them out.
Install an oil pressure guage and see if you get pressure. Crank the engine with the distributor cap off.
Rebuild the carb and put in fresh gas.
Old trick is put a liitle ATF down the carb to help out the apex seals when starting an engine that has sat a while.
Good luck.
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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Klaus45
Redlining
On two wheels
Posts: 218
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posted April 11, 2010 10:31 AM |
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If it's not seized...
...and wasn't overheated or otherwise damaged prior to storage, it can likely be made to run. I'd begin by squirting some oil or ATF in the plug holes, and then turning over by hand (with plugs out), like Sparky suggested. Then I'd want to D&R with fresh oil, coolant, and fuel... prior to running, with another oil change, (and possibly coolant as well) soon after. If you get decent compression, great! If not, a stuck seal may still be unstuck... You may need to push or pull it down the road to bump start it the first time; this would not be unusual. If you can get it to run, suggest using Amsoil Power Foam as per the package directions to clean out carbon, etc., and possibly free up sticky seals. On an otherwise tuned and running engine, Power Foam will yield performance improvements over the next several hundred miles... Seafoam added to fuel does a great job of finishing/maintaining fuel system cleanup. Techron concentrate in the bottle added to fuel may help swell aged/worn oil seals. Strongly suggest upgrading to 1st-gen rx7 electronic ignition distributor. Aged points ignition components/wires must be replaced... also beware the occasional bunk points rotor you may encounter! Proper NGK plugs mandatory...
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted April 12, 2010 08:18 AM |
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Remove the plugs. Liberally spray WD-40 into all 4 plug holes in block. Stick the red straw all the way up and down into the plug holes to get full coverage. And down Carb. Let it sit for 30 minutes then turn the crankshaft with the 19mm socket 90 degrees and keep repeating until you get a full 360* rotation. Clean the plugs with brake cleaner and a toothbrush, tell the neighbors you're killing mosquitos today and fire it up.
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TimPA136
Redlining
Posts: 325
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posted April 12, 2010 08:37 PM |
 Edited By: TimPA136 on 12 Apr 2010 21:11 |
yeah.... what they said
quote:
I have a 1977 REPU in my garage to work on that has 43K original miles on it. It has been setting for 21 years. I did the usual restore things like complete brake and hydraulic clutch component replacement and as well as the fuel system.
what to do with the engine after sitting that many years. Any ideas?
All great suggestions Larry,
Major difference a rotary requires in comparison to a conventional car engine is an oil mixture in the gas.
When starting add motor oil to the float bowl .Take particular caution after starting and check the radiator hose temperatures to make sure the thermostat is opening. Sudden over heat conditions from a sticking thermostat won't be tolerated by a rotary.
You'll need a fan in the garage anyway for the mosquito repellent aim it at the radiator after thermostat opens. You have an electric fuel pump to make priming easy. Let us all know
Tim
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TimPA136
Redlining
Posts: 325
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posted June 27, 2010 04:27 PM |
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Whats the latest Larry
quote:
I have a 1977 REPU in my garage to work on that has 43K original miles on it. It it 100% original and stock.It has been setting for 21 years. I did the usual restore things like complete brake and hydraulic clutch component replacement and as well as the fuel system.However, I haven't a clue what to do with the engine after sitting that many years. Any ideas? The owner wants it left stock.
Whats the latest Larry?
I have more ideas for stuck seals.
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Larry
Newbie
Posts: 3
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posted June 27, 2010 10:45 PM |
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Thanks for asking for an update Tim. I pulled the engine last week to reseal it.It's a beautiful stock truck and I would like to keep it that way so I hope I don't have any case issues.I am not a purist usually. I am in the process of putting a 5 H.O. roller engine,Tremec 5 speed with T-Bird irs in my Miata.
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RX8Guy
Revvin Up
Posts: 65
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posted September 15, 2010 01:51 PM |
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My 74 was in a barn when I found it. been sitting for around 10 years. I was told the motor was dead. It had an extra set of coils mounted on it, another fuel pump mounted in the engine compartment, and plugs layed around every flat spot. Apparently the owner had done lots of work on it himself and deemed the motor was dead when he could get it started. I took all his jick off of it, put back the way it should be, and it fired right up and the air was cold! That was two years ago and it's still running great. And 74 was before Mazda nitrated the cast iron plates.
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If it aint broke, dont fix it!
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Larry
Newbie
Posts: 3
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posted October 08, 2010 02:42 PM |
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I finished rebuilding the engine. Now I need a clutch set. Where can I find One?
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted October 08, 2010 09:50 PM |
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RX8Guy
Revvin Up
Posts: 65
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posted October 09, 2010 07:47 AM |
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I wouldn't use a lighter flywheel unless I planned on running a lot of SCCA stuff with it. A stock flywheel is perfect for stock motors and normal driving.
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If it aint broke, dont fix it!
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mattraver
Revvin Up
Posts: 95
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posted October 11, 2010 11:31 PM |
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but a lightened one is fun. aluminum or steel ,some guy on the forum said an aluminum flywheel would be had to drive ,i beg to differ
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RX8Guy
Revvin Up
Posts: 65
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posted October 12, 2010 08:41 AM |
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I agree with your friend. I've installed an aluminum flywheel in my RX3 (years ago). It was great for the SCCA stuff I was doing then, but it was also my street car. I had to rev the crap out of it just to take off from a full stop. Everyone thought I wanted to race when I was just trying to drive normal. It was great for accelerating out of a corner! But sucked for street driving.
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If it aint broke, dont fix it!
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