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Thread: lots of cranking before start
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 10, 2011 03:30 PM |
 Edited By: mwpayne1 on 10 Nov 2011 15:31 |
Lots of cranking before start
Hey Guys
Just curious to see if you guys have this issue, or is it a 'nature of the beast'. I have electronic ignition out of a '85, new cap, plugs, wires, carb just rebuilt. Truck does sit for weeks, not driven much. I have to crank for at least 30 seconds, or more, before it will try to fire. Once started, runs flawlessly. I've considered the DLIDFS, haven't done it yet. Warm starts, fires right up. Anything I can check meantime?
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spokanerxdude
Hauling
Less cubes... More balls
Posts: 181
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posted November 11, 2011 05:37 AM |
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Could be that over time the gas in the carb evaporates. Next time turn the key on and let it set with the fuel pump running for 30 seconds and see if it starts right up or not. If it still dose it then you have other problems.
Allen
____________
Allen Ervin, spokanerxdude@yahoo.com
509-998-9024
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 11, 2011 06:16 AM |
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I do that too, let it sit with the pump running at least 30 seconds like you suggested. Doesn't seem to help.
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted November 13, 2011 02:41 PM |
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Pump the gas pedal twice before cranking.
It should not take 30 seconds of cranking before firing. I have a 1st gen electronic distributor and it fires after 1 second.
Check the compression.
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TimPA136
Redlining
Posts: 325
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posted November 13, 2011 04:04 PM |
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It should light right off even sitting.
See if it squirts when pumping.
I had a cracked fuel hose at the tank.....Fuel pump was sucking air.
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 13, 2011 05:39 PM |
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When I rebuilt carb I installed a new diaphragm, and it squirts when I pump. I've learned not to do that...tends to be even harder to start if I pump before cranking. Plus more smoke when it fires up.
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted November 13, 2011 07:18 PM |
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I had the same issue. Use an inductive timing light and make sure you have spark when cranking. Found failure in the ignition switch. Had bad contact in switch. When cranking with key in start position switch would cut off power to ignition system/coils. Ended up modifying wiring and installing push button start. Also did DLDFIS upgrade.
____________
'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 21, 2011 03:55 PM |
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Clipped a meter to the coil, looks like voltage is there consistently while cranking. I assume that eliminates the switch?
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted November 21, 2011 06:47 PM |
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Most likely eliminates possible switch issue.
I like using the timing light because it is triggered from the high voltage in the wires. Great for troubleshooting bad ignitors and grounded plugs. Plugs can be grounded or fouled from water or gas.
____________
'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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TimPA136
Redlining
Posts: 325
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posted November 21, 2011 10:40 PM |
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tends to be even harder to start if I pump before cranking. Plus more smoke when it fires up.
I think this may be a clue.
You might pull the carb back off or just up and put a paper towel under it to see if it is dripping and flooding the engine.
Can you determine the smell of the smoke after starting?
Is the evap system stock and if so is the air cleaner lid dry?
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 22, 2011 05:54 AM |
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Good tip on the carb drip, I'll look into that if my compression test is good. I have a RB air filter/lid, it's dry.
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 22, 2011 11:47 AM |
Edited By: mwpayne1 on 22 Nov 2011 11:48
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compression near 90 each on front, 120 overall. 90+ on rear, around 130 overall. I'm honestly not sure if that's good or bad...some sites say 35+ is good, others 100psi minimum. Test was on cold engine.
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spokanerxdude
Hauling
Less cubes... More balls
Posts: 181
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posted November 23, 2011 06:38 AM |
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Your compression test should be done at normal operating temp.40psi is not a good thing recheck it warm. Theres a good chance you wont see as much deviation in the pressures, a cold engine dosnt seal as well thats why it needs to be warm.
____________
Allen Ervin, spokanerxdude@yahoo.com
509-998-9024
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 23, 2011 07:55 AM |
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So, 90 PSI cold would be probably good? I measured it cold because I am having cold start issues.
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted November 28, 2011 04:36 PM |
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Ok, after scanning 1st gen websites, I realized I don't remember aligning the marks on the 84 dizzy when I installed it. I did this, it started quite a bit quicker. I've never done timing ( I know I need a light), I set the dizzy more clockwise, gave higher idle. Any tips when I get a light and check/adjust timing correctly?
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted November 30, 2011 05:04 PM |
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Set it to 0* Leading #1 rotor. At idle with vacuum advance unhooked. That advances to 20* Leading total mechanical advance at 4000rpms. Set the Trailing to 10* more retarded than the Leading. Or less. Don't ever let the trailing fire before the leading. Some people swear by having both T and L at the same time, haven't messed with it personally.
Or, set it to stock timing if you have the shop manual.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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Klaus45
Redlining
On two wheels
Posts: 218
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posted December 02, 2011 09:01 AM |
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'84... wasn't that the year of the problematic remote-mount igniters?
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted December 02, 2011 03:17 PM |
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quote:
'84... wasn't that the year of the problematic remote-mount igniters?
These igniters are mounted on the distributor.
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted December 02, 2011 09:13 PM |
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quote:
'84... wasn't that the year of the problematic remote-mount igniters?
That was 1980 only.
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