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Index > Engine/Drivetrain > Thread: 13b fix or replace
Thread: 13b fix or replace
wvoigt


Revvin Up
Posts: 75
posted August 24, 2003 09:53 PM

13b fix or replace

I just got my Repu. It has been in storage for 6 to 8 years.
PO told me it was smoking so he stopped driving it.It has a 13b engine in it and a 13b in the bed in pieces.Both engines have 13b and capital MAZDA on the rotor housings. How do I fix this?I put a new battery in and disconnected the fuel lines to drain tank.Fuel pump not working.Engine did not turn with starter.
What can I do?
____________
1974 Repu
1973 Courier
1989 Car Dolly

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted August 25, 2003 09:15 AM

Lots of things to check...

1.) Determine if anything in the driveline (engine, clutch, trans, diff.,rear brakes) is actually seized up, or not. For the motor, this could mean removing all spark plugs, putting in neutral, and hand-cranking it by applying pressure to the belt(s) at the pulley... You may want to try putting oil, or ATF directly into the rotor housings... but it'll have to come out again before it'll run...
2.) There are likely electrical reasons it won't crank or fire. Time to get out the ohm meter, small brass wire brush, De-Oxit type contact cleaner, soldering iron, etc...
Cleanliness IS next to Godliness! Check out all fuses and fusible links as well as your ignition switch. Still got points? Are the plugs clean and proper? Etc., etc., etc...
3.) Flush that tank; clean the pickup tube; repair or replace fuel pump... Change that oil and filter, and flush that cooling system out good! Remember to run only the 'proper' Mazda plunger-type thermostat, and refill with a good mix of antifreeze.

You've got two old 4-port cores, or better. Just because it's high miles and smoking doesn't mean it couldn't still run...the seal springs may or may not be significantly affected in those positions where they were compressed for eight years... To see how good it still might be, you'll have to do everything to get it running as good as possible, then Powerfoam it to clean it out, which'll help to unstick the seals, if sticking... The bottom line on 4-ports, though, is you should count on needing 5 or more cores to build one to spec. ...since most or all are worn-out beyond rebuildable at this point, or are not for sale at all... or so it seems.

       
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wvoigt


Revvin Up
Posts: 75
posted August 30, 2003 05:04 PM

The engine is frozen.Spark plugs in the 2nd rotor rusted.I'm pulling the motor,But where can I find a replacement? The rotors from the extra engine look good.
How can I find a good rebuilder?
Bill
San Diego
____________
1974 Repu
1973 Courier
1989 Car Dolly

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted August 30, 2003 08:18 PM

Racing Beat

is close to you, in Anaheim... Atkins and Hayes are in Wa. state... but if you're looking to guarantee yourself a successfully rebuilt , 'original' 4-port 13B, you'll likely need a number of additional core motors... unless you're exceedingly fortunate...in which case, you might be able to run your 'extra' engine more or less as-is...?

       
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wvoigt


Revvin Up
Posts: 75
posted August 31, 2003 08:36 AM

Which 13b rotors will fit in my engine?
Are they all the same?

____________
1974 Repu
1973 Courier
1989 Car Dolly

       
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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1671
posted August 31, 2003 07:44 PM

quote:
Which 13b rotors will fit in my engine?
Are they all the same?



ANY 13b rotors will fit in the engine, the trick is to make it all work together with the rest of the engine components.

84-85 GSL-SE 13b rotors are the same weight as REPU/RX-4 so that's a direct swap in. No prob there at all. Same with using GSL-SE rotor housings.

If you use 86-88 rotors, you need the front and rear counterweight from same car.

Same with 89-91 rotors, which are lighter weight and higher compression.

3rd gen 93-95 rotors are low compression (as are 87-91) and should not be used ina non turbo application.

You only need the rear counterweight if you are using an aftermarked flywheel. Otherwise you need the entire flywheel, which has a build in counterweight.

REPU flywheels are veryheavy to keep engine's rotating mass moving. GSL-SE's have a lighter flywheel which will increase motor's ZIP.

I use an aluminum flywheel from RX-4 (and RX-4 clutch) to make it very zippy. Very Noticeable difference!!!


____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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wvoigt


Revvin Up
Posts: 75
posted September 01, 2003 07:57 AM

Rotor Housings

Great Info Brad.
Which Rotor Housings will work with my 13b?
____________
1974 Repu
1973 Courier
1989 Car Dolly

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted September 01, 2003 10:51 AM

Any...

...13B from '74 thru '78. Next, newer build: '84 GSL-SE 6-port. Or: period-specific 'j-spec' housings... For building an 'earlier' style motor, you'll want the 'tall-port' center housing... but generally, the later 'nitrided' (dull grey in appearance) side plates are far more durable-- though apparently not re-surfaceable to all but a very minor extent (lapped, not ground!!!)... I'm told the nitrided side plates are actually far easier to port, once you get thru the hardened surface...
If I were in your location, and had the funds, I'd go to Racing Beat, and go nuts!

       
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