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Index > Body Exterior > Thread: repair fake chrome on headlight surrounds?
Thread: repair fake chrome on headlight surrounds?
Tom93R1


Redlining
Posts: 458
posted January 26, 2004 05:23 PM

repair fake chrome on headlight surrounds?

This weekend I decided to do a bit of restoration work on my grill and headlight surrounds. The chrome was in pretty good shape as far as I could tell, the grill needed new silver paint and the headlight surrounds needed new black. First thing I did was tore the whole thing apart, removed emblems and taped the chrome on the headlight surrounds so I could paint the inside black. While taping them up I pulled a piece of tape off and a large flake of the chrome came off with it! Now I need to figure out how to repair that chrome. I was looking at the chrome paint, how well does that hold up? Otherwise, I could do it in the same silver that I am spraying on the grill. That silver is a bit more reflective than the cap on the can lead me to believe any way. Any other alternatives? I assume that there is no way to put real chrome on plastic right?

____________


'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!

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nwaco


Redlining
Posts: 407
posted January 26, 2004 09:28 PM

It's called Vacuum Metalizing......

and it is the process that originally put the chrome on. It can be done, and redone, so it just takes sending the part into a specialist and having it worked. www.Rayvac.com is the only name I know offhand, but they should be able to work your issue.

Personally, I'd rather pay to have it rechromed, than spray paint it, but that is just MO.


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brad


Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
posted January 27, 2004 09:53 AM

hey tom,i'm repainting my grille and headlight surronds right now too.

i used 3m rubbing compound and polish on the chrome to smooth it out and make it not sticky. put a thin layer of wax on the chrome. took masking tape and stuck it to my shirt first. pulled it off and then stuck it on the waxed chrome. that way tape is not as sticky either.

so if you find more headlight surrounds, that's a good way to do it.
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge

       
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Tom93R1


Redlining
Posts: 458
posted January 27, 2004 12:36 PM

I will have to look into that vaccuum metalizing. Too bad I didnt think to wax the chrome and pre-stick the tape to de-sticky it :(

____________


'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!

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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted January 27, 2004 10:42 PM

For god's sake whatever you do, don't use any sort of laquer thinner to remove hte adhesive as it'll strip the rest of the shiney right off.

If you don't want to vacuum metalise the piece (your best option) there's a decent paint out there for chrome finishes. Remind me tomorrow and I'll dig the can out of my storage bin.

Its not as good as vacuum metalisation but its a pretty genuinly reflective surface. You have to back it with a flat black and it wouldn't hurt to clear coat it when you're done but its not strictly necessary.

I'll get the name of the stuff tomorrow for you, its available in most good hobby shops but you can order it online too.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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Tom93R1


Redlining
Posts: 458
posted January 27, 2004 11:02 PM

Cool, thanks. The chrome that came off isnt too bad, I will probably live with it for a little while this way until I have something that I know will definatately look good and last.
____________


'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!

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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted January 28, 2004 06:59 PM

Alclad II
Lacquer

Chrome for Lexan

3oz spray can goes for ~10 bucks. Should be enough to do two surrounds.

If you're wondering just how chrome-like the stuff is check out:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/AlcladII/colour1.htm

-----------


My only concern re: this stuff is prolonged sun exposure.

I think to be on the safe side you might look into a clear coat finish (UV resistant if possible) and keep a good coat of UV resistant wax on it.



Its not the optimal solution, like I said, but I think for ten bucks you'll get the second best finish possible and should certainly hold you over until you decide to spend the big bucks :)

BTW, I think you might be able to get it vacuum metalised for under $50 based on what I've read and people I've talked to, but you would need to get a quote.

I don't know where you live but if you google for vacuum metalisation services in your region I'm sure you'll find a few (and failing that Rayvac does good work I've heard).

Good luck with it.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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Draggin_2600i


Redlining
Posts: 235
posted April 12, 2004 11:54 PM

I always thought rechroming would be the best way to go.. But what I wonder is if I can fix cracks in the plastic.. and with what so that it can then be rechromed.. ANy suggestions?

       
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rotormunky


Redlining
Orlando, Florida
Posts: 424
posted April 13, 2004 01:43 AM

quote:
I always thought rechroming would be the best way to go.. But what I wonder is if I can fix cracks in the plastic.. and with what so that it can then be rechromed.. ANy suggestions?



I'd try some simple two-part epoxy for economy sake first.

I'd mix up a little and dab it on the back side somewhere to test it where it can't be seen. Let it set and sand it a little and see how well it adheres. If it sticks like I imagine it would you can always fill in the crack from the back side, then lightly sand flat from the front side.

And just so we're being absolutely clear, you're talking about having the piece vacuum metalised right? Not actually chrome plating it. I believe the pastic surround will melt.


____________
-Martin
Orlando, Florida

http://www.themonkeyhouse.org/REPU

'77 REPU (Some assembly required :)
'91 Cabrio (Battered and bruised, but she's still my baby.)

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Draggin_2600i


Redlining
Posts: 235
posted April 16, 2004 03:22 PM

yeah that vacuum method.. .. I just never knew if I could fix the plastic.. I will try that epoxy stuff.. see if it works.. got any suggestion on brands?

       
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Tom93R1


Redlining
Posts: 458
posted June 14, 2004 02:47 PM

So is this anybody here?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38661&item=7905214691&rd=1


Very nice indeed.
____________


'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!

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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted June 15, 2004 07:52 AM

Without checking the link...

...I'll hazard a guess that it's Craig's auction for the show-quality re-vacuum-metalized restored surrounds...
Beautiful, but not cheep!
Sometimes, the only way to get it right is the only way...

       
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Rotaryrocket


Newbie
Posts: 2
posted January 21, 2005 09:41 PM

Heres something for the do-it-yourselfer looking to make an investment in plating at home:

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/index.html

Theres also a product on that page called silvaspray, which when sprayed on plastics, allows you to plate them. I have no idea how well these products work, but to be honest have been thinking about purchasing the kits, being that they seem to be inexpensive enough. And if it does, think of all the bling you could do!!

       
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