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Thread: factory wheels
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Tom93R1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted May 25, 2002 09:10 AM |
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factory wheels
What wheels were stock/optional on the REPU? I have a '74 with some wide cast aluminum wheels. they are the same as on this truck from Jeff20b's web site http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/pics/image09.jpg
Was this wheel an option from the factory? It seems to be quite common on the REPU but that could just be all that was available at that time. If this wheel was an option, what tire size came on it? I have some 195/60 r15 tires on mine and my speedo/odo are off my about 10%.
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'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 26, 2002 02:59 AM |
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I have stock B2000 rims. They're 14" and chrome steel.
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Tom93R1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted May 26, 2002 11:05 AM |
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I just realized I had the size wrong, I have 195/60 r14. What size tires do you have Jeff and how accurate do you think your speedo is?
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'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 26, 2002 11:54 AM |
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The fronts are 195 75R 14. The rear are some sort of 27" truck tire (larger than the front, but fit on 14" rims). I got the truck with these tires on it and haven't gotten new ones yet.
I got some used alloy rims from a friend. They've got 205 50R 15 on all four. Really worn out though. I tried driving on them the other day and with my sloppy steering, it wasn't very fun. Infact it's a little dangerous with such grippy tires because the truck will literaly follow any and all lines or patterns in the road without my say so. They're also way to small in diameter. Wide enough, but too short.
With the 27" truck tires, my speedo is around 5MPH too high at most speeds. The 50 series tires are at least 2 inches shorter and had me going into 3rd and 4th way too often. I think the error was at least 15MPH too high or something. Sure I could accelerate a little quicker due to the increased torque, but I've already got a 4.60 diff, so I don't need such short tires. Good thing they're dangerously worn out (down past the rubber and into the radial belts right in the middle of both rear tires from too many burn outs hehe - the fronts still have some life left in them).
Since those 27" tires give me an overall good compromise between hight and gearing, I'll be getting some 15" 205s (maybe 215) with similar diameter so my speedo will still be ok. The front offset causes the 15" rims to stick out from the front fenders, but the rears are neatly tucked right below the fenders. Maybe I could get some fender flares or something. Don't want to attract the wrong kind of attention.
I won't use the alloy rims untill I get my steering box fixed.
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repuguru
Redlining
Posts: 319
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posted May 26, 2002 06:24 PM |
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The truck came with a 5.5 X 14 steel wheel.And a small chrome center cap that covers the hub center.
I think there may have been a dealer option wheel offered in a waogn wheel variety? But the Mazda Factory REPU service manual shows only one wheel.
The tire listed is a 7.35-14.
And pressures are 24psi-f
36psi-r
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77' REPU plus a few spare parts
for it.
85' GSL-SE
83' GSL
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repujeff
Revvin Up
Posts: 71
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posted May 26, 2002 07:26 PM |
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My 77 has the original bias ply tires on it. Just went out to look at some of the stuff printed on it. Bridgestone Skyway Deluxe-max load 1450 lbs at 36 psi max. 6 plies:tread 4 polyester+1 nylon sidewall 4 polyester. And confirms the tire size that repuguru said. I am going to attempt to put pictures in the gallery tomorrow. These pix are the "before". When I get it washed and waxed and a small dent removed will post new pix.
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 27, 2002 03:00 AM |
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That blue truck at http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/pics/image09.jpg has 14" in front and 15" in back. Click the link, then drag the little e (located just left of the http://www etc) and drop it onto the url itself (yep, drag it 1/4 inch to the right and drop it on the http://www.geo... etc part). It somehow refreshes the page in a better way than hitting the refresh button. This only applies to Internet Explorer users, but Netscape may be similar. This technique has yet to fail on geocities pics and sometimes even works for tripod and anglefire pics too! Too bad it doesn't work to post picks on a BB though.
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 27, 2002 03:05 AM |
 Edited By: Jeff20B on 14 Jun 2002 23:46 |
And here is my truck with its B2000 rims.
Check out how narrow the tires are. The offset is really pretty bad. I'd like to get my steering box fixed soon so I could start using my wider alloy rims (not pictured).
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Tom93R1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted May 27, 2002 08:43 AM |
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I guess mine match just the front wheels on that convertable truck then. I think they stick out too far, over an inch past the wheel wells. I can't believe how fast my REPU gets dirty because of that! I need to find some original wheels to try out for awhile, and the correct tire size so I don't have to be at 5000 to go 70 mph.
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'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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repuguru
Redlining
Posts: 319
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posted May 27, 2002 08:52 PM |
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Yes I wonder what Mazda was thinking when they made the front width 57" and then put a 56" wide rearend in it? The only way I see to over come this is to use spacers for the rear or to run different offset wheels. Then you give up rotating them because the tires have to be different sizes to fit properly under the truck.
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77' REPU plus a few spare parts
for it.
85' GSL-SE
83' GSL
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repuguru
Redlining
Posts: 319
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posted May 27, 2002 08:55 PM |
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Jeff what is that sticking out from under your truck?
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted May 27, 2002 10:26 PM |
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You mean those two square tubes? They were on it when I got it back in '97. I think they were for some sort of tow bar or something. There is also a hook mounted on the bumper right under the Rotary Engine emblem. I once was going to remove the tubes, but then discovered how nice they are to set jack stands under. They also take parking stall 'cement thing' abuse so my lower valence panel doesn't have to.
By the way, my friend and I worked on that blue truck today, but I didn't get a chance to look at the tires. Maybe next week.
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted June 10, 2002 10:38 AM |
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That extra inch of width....
...probably makes a difference in handling! Then again, can you imagine those tall, skinny skyway deluxes with 24 psi in front? What were they thinking? My steering/frontend is sloppy and worn-out too, but I put up with 205/60 R15 Goodyear Eagles on 15x7 rims on the street anyway. 34 or more psi front, as little as 28 psi rear at times with no load and no back bumper... unmodified suspension still, I'm sorry to say... the difference between this tire/wheel combe and 205/50 R15 BFG R-1's on half-inch wider rims is remarkable. Talk about grabby! Always seeking direction... quicker in 2nd and 3rd as well... Whatever I end up doing, I don't intend to modify my stock fender flares...that's why they came with mudflaps!
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted June 11, 2002 01:22 AM |
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Well, I almost sideswiped a guardrail with my 205 50R 15s because of how grippy they are and my loose steering. I figured it would be a good idea to get into my steering box sometime soon and tighten up the slop before my 195 75R 14 tires get too worn out, so I can ditch the 14s in favor of 15s! I've thought about what size 15s to get to replace the worn out 50 series tires. So far, 60 series seems like the best height to get. Probably 205 width too. That should fit pretty well (but stick out from the fenders pretty far).
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Uncle-Jim
Revvin Up
Posts: 64
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posted June 11, 2002 11:22 AM |
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15" WHEELS
I put 15" alloys on my '77 and I tried to match the tire dia. to the original. I ended up with 225x60 15, as an almost exact match. The only problem is they are a bit too wide and I rub the front fender lip at certain angles.
I'm using Michelin mxv4's and these are wonderfully smooth tires and generate more cornering than I can use right now.
I solved a lot of my sloppy steering by replacing all four ball joints. The originals were rusty and worn. I found replacements on the shelf at a local parts store, and turned out to be the original brand.
Now the steering is much improved. You might check this before you open the steering box.
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Uncle Jim
72 Rx-2 Show Car; '77 REPU (250K & goin' strong) 2 - '76 Cosmo's
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted June 12, 2002 01:18 AM |
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Thanks! What is the prefered method of testing ball joints?
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Uncle-Jim
Revvin Up
Posts: 64
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posted June 12, 2002 11:39 AM |
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Ball Joints
The best way to check is to look with lots of light. In my case, the rubber boots had deteriorated and one was missing. I could see rust around the shaft into the joint.
The aligment guy said he could see slop as he adjusted, but he still could get the alignment ok.
However, once I got the old ones out, two were very loose, and one was rough, and the last was dry and stiff.
I think these may have been the originals and gone 200k. I had to use heat to get them out of the suspension, and one I had to cut apart with a grinding wheel and drill out the shaft.
Bottom line, the new joints have made the steering easier, and the "on center" feel of the truck much better. I still probably need tie rod ends, and new shocks, but hey! one thing at a time.
I'd like to hear of other's experiences.
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Uncle Jim
72 Rx-2 Show Car; '77 REPU (250K & goin' strong) 2 - '76 Cosmo's
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offline
1st Gear
Posts: 16
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posted June 18, 2002 03:14 AM |
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FYI- on my 1990 2wd I used the stock 15x5.5 wheels from a Nissan Pathfinder and they looked like they grew there. The truck was lowered and had suspension travel that allowed the tire,(195/50/15), sidewalls to go up, past he fender lip, and they never made contact, even turning in parking lots.
I strongly recomend Nissan pathfinder 15 inch steels, excellent offset and the bolt patern/hub center is spot-on.
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Rotor
Revvin Up
certifiable rotorhead
Posts: 70
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posted August 23, 2002 10:47 AM |
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quote:
Yes I wonder what Mazda was thinking when they made the front width 57" and then put a 56" wide rearend in it? The only way I see to over come this is to use spacers for the rear or to run different offset wheels. Then you give up rotating them because the tires have to be different sizes to fit properly under the truck.
JD.....almost all street cars/trucks have a narrower rear track width that the front. The few exceptions are usually high performance rear engine/RWD sports cars, and a few hi-po front engine/RWD sports cars. Vipers and Porsches come immediately to mind.
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ROTOR 
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Rotor
Revvin Up
certifiable rotorhead
Posts: 70
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posted August 23, 2002 10:58 AM |
Edited By: Rotor on 23 Aug 2002 16:50
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Steering boxes
I hear you guys talking about worn out steering boxes. Have any of you tried adjusting the steering box? That usually takes care of most of the slop in the steering box. One of my 75 REPUs has over 350,000 miles on it, and it has finally worn the box to the point that adjustment is no longer viable. I think anything with less than a quarter million miles on it, the box would no be worn out.
Courier/B series steering boxes, of the same year model, will bolt right in a REPU, but they do have a different steering ratio than a REPU, according to the factory Mazda Spec books.
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ROTOR
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