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Index > @ the Pickup Bed (General Topics) > Thread: Arkansas Originals :P
Thread: Arkansas Originals :P [' This thread is 2 pages long: (1) 2 ']
tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 21, 2004 10:24 PM

Arkansas Originals :P

hello fellow rotorheads! nice to see so many other people involed with <the repu> .. i'm 21, got a 74 and 75 ... one all original/3 speed auto and one all restored with 83 12a/5 speed ... first rotaries for me ... only vehicles as well and has treated me dearly as i have to them.

I have really been hoping to meet others locally with a repu,but ... i am wanting to say that i probly am the only one in my region ... saw a 74 sittin next to run down house, and u could tell the repu has been sitting for a while as well ... But now it is gone so that kinda makes me wonder if maybe there is potential for a local fellow repu rotorhead ... i had a job natonwide last year temperarly and looked and looked and looked, found handful in a few states but none running. I have had mine for over a year now by the way<sold my pistoned mx6 to a buddy cheap cheap cheap and slipped into the rotary scene> and very inspired by the different syle combustion of power, and being a repu ... experimental jap p-up. I don't think anyone here realizes just whats under my wings when i am flying by @ crusing rpms,not to mention the classic tags and rotary powered on the tailgate, and everything else.

I came across this site some time ago and did not have the web so i never really was able to do a whole lotta research and communicating with others .... and now i do and here is my presence to (youns)<little ark slang> :P .. so i don't know the response i am to get, i am just at a point .... that i am so inlove with my repu's and @ the same time i don't know the direction i should be going as far as parting them or investing or just like it is, daily driven and the other just keeping the other company when i park in drive. both run really good, and very fast for a stock 4,000 pound steel truck.

so to not take up to much here ... inspiration?feedback?nasty comments?compliments?wisdom of true rotorhead?offer for 'em?
all ears with the open mind .. and my last thoughts ... i would love to just cruise/race/rally/ whatever with another repu(anything rotary at that) down the road ... that would be the sh**!!!


You guys/gals if your there are awesome by the way ... definetly dedicated to the site !

repu guy in the ozarks*
<arkansas originals>

       
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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 21, 2004 10:32 PM

and one more thing...

i posted a pic in the photo gallery and have more if you would like to see ... unsure how to post more than one pic ... got 8 pics as of now ...

:(:)

       
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kansei


Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
posted May 22, 2004 06:12 AM
Edited By: kansei on 22 May 2004 06:13

Welcome!

...To the REAL world... the rotary one. Sounds great having two running trucks in good shape- especially an automatic! Some may disagree with me, but I would like to have a restored auto just because. You'll soon see, if you haven't already, that there's someone here that can answer just about any question/problem you have or may have with your trucks. I'd stay away from parting them out like you mentioned, as they are hard as heck (at least in my part of the country) to find, and getting harder by the day! Pretty neat that you are starting out with a REPU as your first rotary vehicle. You jumped in head first with one of the more rare models. Enjoy!
____________
Neal A.E. Swigert
Greenville, Michigan
1974 REPU Resto Project
1976 808 Wagon
1977 Cosmo
1978 Savanna RX-7 GT
1980 Leather Sport RX-7
1980 Petty Targa RX-7 #11
1985 GSL-SE RX-7
1988 RX-7 10th Ann
1993 RX-7 VR Touring




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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 22, 2004 12:05 PM

:(...........:)

thank you for the reply and insight.I hope to here from more and more people.It blows my mind that the more and more i find out it just gets deeper and deeper in a unique manner.-->from locations of trucks.to people who own them and there ages from young to old . and i am yet just get deeper as time goes . but i thrive off uniqueness and is how kinda came across my first repu.
I service vehicles for a living as one of my jobs so i knew what to look for when i got my 75 but holy cow!This has been the most reliable vehicle i have ever owned ... it's crazy ... i don't dog em at all, they go very fast on there own speed wise ... but my shifting is generally around 4 rpms ... i have yet to push it to the limit which i don't have that rotary knowledge i guess, yet.my 75 has custom water temp gauge for more accurate reading and i watch it all the time,its 12a cooling system sucks i hear and i notice it rising to about 195 degrees,i heard 180-190 is average and 220 apex seals go ...?so i tend to baby mine,so afraid of runnning into a situation that will really put me in a bind, like i said 21 single paying all my own bills(have been for years now)and paycheck-to-check is hard to invest in my hobbies .... my repu's are just one unique hobby.
it has taken me along time figuring out what i know about my 75 being someone redid basically everything, and has the newer motor ... i still do not know who or where? and they knew everything to do i guess, the manifold had to be customed to fit,the 5 speed i think with crossmember i think as well,battery is fabricated under hood compartment with bodywork where the battery was and you can't even tell,there is 't' piece in the oil cooling lines i found out that was custom, list goes on and just makes in a mystery ... i have found myself frustarated from the hardness of finding info and such. i fell in love with it of course,and came across my 74 , which the 3 speed really got my eye,and all original still looks really good i would say (most i see on the web are rusted or not running or just not running well at that)and ran good,so i got it hoping to benfit me someday.Like i said i don't dive it but take it out about once week down the road and back to it smooth i guess you say.it had the original service coupon book from the dealership showing all recorded sercies from 3,000 milez to 94,000 milez and this gets deeper from here ... on the coupons there stamps of two dealerships throughout the services,one from the town i live in and the other from colorado, i figuered the dates and milage and it was one month to there and next back to here, there is two names of owner of vehicle one up to 33,000 milez and the other all of his life(bought from wife which said husband died years before,still had truck and she did not want it i assume.)and on top of that on the first blank page and last blank page is handwritten oil changes(dates/milage) from 3,000 milez to 100,000 milez and its got 140,000 so that whole thing was some research, still researching trying to find family members and such cause i have the info ... lots of history in that repu... and other is the biggest mystery to me ... i have an 83 12a and all mechanical parts from head to toe which is the same under the hood of my 75.
another thing i have been questioning is whether i should modify (performance wise) or keep stock or not mess with... i don't know if i am getting in to something i can't handle with no back up of any sort .... this website has been a great knowledgement so far ... i noticed almost every member has probly 10 or more rotary powerd whatever, that blows my mind as well ... and here i am afraid to look inside my spare motor to learn more, some over twenty rotaries WOW! i wish there was that around my area, hardly any rotaries,hardly any junkers . i have a guy bout 100 miles away says he use to sponcered by mazda speed in florida/maybe even worked for them back in the day and has many parts for whatever ... he took my 75 to show me and he loved it ... said it was probly the most quiet rotary he has heard for a long time.my 74 13b is louder than my other and i try check out the difference between the two i just don't drive my 74 hardly and don't really have much hobby time ... it's all work most of the time and my one day off i usually take care of things i can't while i work.

i am still bouncing the idea of parting them but it definetly wouldn't be to someone who didn't know about rotary or vehicles at that.i can't stand when people trash there rides .... i see alot servicing them .i am just trying to all the insight i can get on everything and whatever about the"repu" ... i kinda wish they were all right hand steer ... thats what i what the real deal from hiroshima,tokyo .... read that on the original owner's manuel of one of them. !

thanks again so far!


       
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kansei


Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
posted May 22, 2004 03:23 PM

So much info...

It's great that you have alot of history/knowledge on your trucks and where they came from, etc. By the time many of us get our hands on another older rotary, the manuals, warranty/coupon books, etc. are long gone or incomplete, or better yet- a '76 with a '74 owner's manual or something like that where a previous owner did what they could to get papers for the vehicle. You mentioned having a 12A and 13B... does one truck not have the original 13B? All REPUs came with a 4-port 13B (same as the RX-4s and RX-5 Cosmos), carbed, though I have found some had the Zenith-Strombergs and some other had Hitachis. I'm sure some of the guys here know what years came with what. I know azrotor is selling a bunch of stock carbs right now- may want to look into that for spares. You said you wished your trucks were RHD. Keep in mind that the REPUs were only sold in North America, and therefore all were LHD. That's another fact that makes our trucks all the more interesting. The REPU was the only Mazda automobile to leave Hiroshima (back when their only plants were all in Hiroshima) that did not have a home market variant as well as one for export. Usually you'll see cars that the home market gets that we don't (R130, R360, 1500, 1800, etc.), but in this case Japan did not get a REPU.

If you don't already have them, and decide to keep your trucks, track down a factory workshop manual for them (make sure you match the year of the truck), it will help you decipher what has been modified on your truck from stock. If you decide to part one or both of them out, though, PLEASE get in touch with me (kansei@pathwaynet.com), as there are still quite a few bits I need for both of my trucks.

Back out to the shop to work on the FD....
____________
Neal A.E. Swigert
Greenville, Michigan
1974 REPU Resto Project
1976 808 Wagon
1977 Cosmo
1978 Savanna RX-7 GT
1980 Leather Sport RX-7
1980 Petty Targa RX-7 #11
1985 GSL-SE RX-7
1988 RX-7 10th Ann
1993 RX-7 VR Touring




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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 22, 2004 03:54 PM

Zenith-Strombergs and Hitachis...

can you tell me abot these different motors, yes one does not have the original 13b ... would be the one restored with 83 12a and 5 speed. that is very intereting about the rhd ... what would be needed to upgrade the intake<would be the 12a> cause i have thought about that very seriously, get a header from R.B. and nicer intake, my deal with that is that i have not messed with carbs ... there r so many parts involved ... but on my 12a most of the vac lines and what not are plugged, found that from the extra intake i have has all vac lines still attatched.Performance tires i have tried to find that will fir and have been unsuccessful, i have all measurements to clear but can't find .... hardly any universal 6 lug car,and most truck rims r 7-7 1/2 inches which would hit i do believe ... i almost found a great match from a nissan chrome pathfinder rim ... fits right on but does not clear grease zerts, man it would've looked sharp ...
apologize for the long replies ... i do enjoy communicating ... always a good thing anything i say

<neal>you r located michigan? what is the scence there as far as repus? is there a meeting nationwide at all for repu's?and can you tell me alittle about the value of repu?i have heard from $1000 or less or as much as $20000 idon't know about all that but i am interested.

       
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kansei


Redlining
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Posts: 423
posted May 23, 2004 07:32 AM

Well, when I referred to Zenith and Hitachis, I was talking about the carburetors (manufacturers), not the engines. Although there are some engine variations. They are all 13B 4-ports (1308cc/1.3L), however there were port size differences, nitrided and non-nitrided housings, etc. Read some of the other threads under the engine and drivetrain section, and you'll see terms like 3B, R5, etc. That's where you are geting into different engine castings and such.

As far as value, it is really hard to say for certain. Most of the trucks that I see for sale that still have original paint, dents and dings from daily use and maybe some rust here and there seem to be selling for $400-1500, depending on their running condition, how much work would be required before it could be dependable and road worthy. However, there has been alot of disagreement about possible value of the trucks and their parts. Read some of the other threads- you'll see what I mean. If I can buy a complete truck that can be made to run with some money and work for $500, is a used fender really worth $1000? It all boils down to what someone else is willing to pay for what you have to sell. If you can find someone to buy one of your trucks for say $3k, well, then, it was worth $3k, but only to the person that gives you that for it, know what I mean? To arbitrarily say these trucks are worth a certain amount I think is a bit presumptuous. Even the trucks that have been gone through, have few miles on a rebuilt engine and a strong trans, newer paint, etc. still seem to be selling under $4k, so go figure. Now here in Michigan, I have only come across two REPUs. On is a 1975 white one that I tried to buy a little over two years ago. I offered the guy $3k becuase he was the original owner (even though the truck was truly only worth about a grand, but I did not have one yet... glad I didn't get it... too high), and he refused it. The other was my '76 that I bought recently off of Phil in Detroit. I have heard rumors of a green one running around Grand Rapids here somewhere, but have never seen it. Any older rotary cars, including even 7s are getting scarce around here, especially in junkyards. They are crushing them out because there just isn't a market for them anymore. The oldest Mazda I have seen in any junkyard around here in the past four years was a 1979 RX-7, rusted to the max. I buy up all the cars I can as cheap as possible just to have them down the road. Once they're gone, they're gone.
____________
Neal A.E. Swigert
Greenville, Michigan
1974 REPU Resto Project
1976 808 Wagon
1977 Cosmo
1978 Savanna RX-7 GT
1980 Leather Sport RX-7
1980 Petty Targa RX-7 #11
1985 GSL-SE RX-7
1988 RX-7 10th Ann
1993 RX-7 VR Touring




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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 23, 2004 08:58 AM

do you have any clue how many repus were made ... and how many were distributed to the us? If i keep both of mine i would probly want to keep my auto 13b original as it is, and upgrade my 12a 5 speed repu ... and hunt down the other that disappeared from where i have been watching it .. whomever snagged that one up left the original camper in the yard so maybe i can come across that and try to locate where the truck went to ...

how hard would it be to swap a carb<upgrade> ... that would make a pretty good difference right? I think i will still research to find some sort of 17-18 inch rim that will fit .. i know lug nut adapters would be an option but i don't know how safe that would be ... is a such thing as lug nut extension cause i can find rims that would bolt right up just to wide 7- 7 1/2 inches generally.

       
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kansei


Redlining
Wankelized
Posts: 423
posted May 23, 2004 09:24 AM
Edited By: kansei on 23 May 2004 09:25

Not certain

how many REPUs were made. Dave (rotarydave), Ken (nwaco) or Craig (straightrepu) may know. But being as they were only supposed to be distributed in the USA and Canada (though I have heard rumor that there were a few dealerships that sold them in Northern Mexico), there are not a whole lot of areas to check for them. I know a few have found their way to Australia, New Zealand, Europe, and Peurto Rico.

As for carbs, no, it's prety simple to swap them out. You may have to fashion an adapter (baseplate) to make a different carb work, but make sure you keep the CFMs and jets in order- don't want to bog it down or lean it out too much.

If you keep the automatic stock, someday it would be wise to change it back to the factory white if you are looking for the "all original" kind of aura for it. Keep it nice and sell it to me down the road when I have some money! :)
____________
Neal A.E. Swigert
Greenville, Michigan
1974 REPU Resto Project
1976 808 Wagon
1977 Cosmo
1978 Savanna RX-7 GT
1980 Leather Sport RX-7
1980 Petty Targa RX-7 #11
1985 GSL-SE RX-7
1988 RX-7 10th Ann
1993 RX-7 VR Touring




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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 23, 2004 09:41 AM

man ... i just wanna say to this site,to the rotorheads, and you<neal> thanks so much so far ... i believe my inspiration is building ... right now i am gonna go and try to get that camper <which is white> and try to find out bout the truck ... i know it is 74 manuel ... bout a 100 mile trip .... just call me the repu hunter in the repu!

i do know where many other trucks are in the surrounding states but i don't have any $ or time cause it take i bit of that ....

i will keep you mind<neal> when you r ready 4 another ... maybe i can collect as many as i can and fill my driveway with repus ... will be my goal ... something about the repu compared to other models just sparks my interest, i have always been in tuner cars and never trucks till this. repu's rule right!

       
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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 23, 2004 01:23 PM

just got back ...

well, the truck that i found was from new mexico, and now it is in florida ... had 74,000 milez on it .. so no luck there ... on the camper, were they all the same or a specific for the repu ... this one is pretty nice all wood looking on the inside with lights and drawers and roll out windows ... back plastic glass broken out and one hydrolic hinge is not attatched or functionable. the fella wanted $150, and i oferred what i had and he said ok ... gave him 20 deposit cause it would need to be strapped down for transportaion ... i am not very interested in campers but if it is a repu deal i will go for it ... very nice man,wife to ... with her 10 ft python around her neck!!! that was unexpecting to me ... they in there 60's i would say. i have a few leads on some other repu's so distance from here so my research will continue,and if anyone really needs a camper no problem.

thanks*

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted May 23, 2004 04:32 PM

Welcome to the forum!

Looks like you're probably keeping your trucks; nice! A couple'a things come to mind....: If everything is fuctionally proper enough, you'll definitely want to start exploring what happens when you pedal-to-metal just prior to 4K rpm's... Rotaries don't like to be babied too much!
As to the upgrades...: A free flowing exhaust is definitely the first step; the Racing Beat header is the best one on the market... Intake mod's are next; then there's the question of porting... If either of your trucks does not yet have electronic ignition from a 1st-gen 7, you'll definitely want that...
I'd skip the thought of rims bigger than 15 or 16"... though if you find the proper offset, 7 to 7.5" wide will work... try some 205 to 225 series 50 or 60 tires.
As to how many of our REPU's ever made, it was under 16,000 units from '74 thru '77 total... so, don't mod out anything too good and original!
It's a safe bet you'll need to clean out your carb's sooner or later. The good news is, the old Hitachi's aren't too tough... Before looking for more power via mods, try to make certain everything is functioning at it's best, first...(and try exploring the REAL powerband, from 4K on up! You're safe 'til 8 grand for a stock motor.)
Now, about that truck with the 12A motor...

       
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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 23, 2004 05:34 PM

12a repu

thanks for the greeting first ... as for the 12a in my 75 <daily driver> i have heard the cooling system <small ribbed cone around small filter> sucks ... i have aftermarket water temp gauge and the times a have stuck it to it 5-6 rpms<stickin it to it for me> i notice that temp going up at least to 200 degrees ... so i would back off, blowing an apex is the last thing i would need to happen to me.
i heard at 220 the seals will blow, would the 2 qrt oil cooler thats original for the repu fit on the 12a motor?
man i wish the was some rotorheads here i could hang with and learn whole bunch more , ... deticated to you guy now and this real good for me i think.

thanks* <still on the hunt for ARKANSAS ORIGINALS>

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted May 24, 2004 11:03 AM

You can plumb in darn near anything...

...and since rotaries reject at least one-third of their heat via the oil/oil cooler, it's very important... if an oldschool REPU/rx-4/cosmo-type cooler is available, great! Alternately, an aftermarket one will do... Just remember, unless it's brand new, it'll need thoroughly cleaned out... coolers tend to be where metal particles end up... and even new ones need to be totally clean. I'd just leave the one under the filter where it is... and add a 'real' one up front, where it's supposed to be.
Meantime, there's no better thing than plenty of fresh, clean oil! If you can afford it, Amsoil is a great thing...
You might want to consider at what point you'll want to put a 13B back where it belongs--no matter from what year you might upgrade to. 12A's belong in two's, three's, and early sevens...
Best, K.

       
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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted May 24, 2004 05:32 PM

waterpump experience today !

Sounds like an idea ... can you can both oil cooling systems on one? ....
today at one of the jobs<shop> i changed my oil, heard a distinct sound from belt drive that i have never heard that would go away with a little rev ... well after oil change i pulled it out and saw coolant on the ground ... waterpum on the bottom side leakng ... found all the parts i needed except for base plate gasket to motor/ which i cut to fit.What a day .... no probs as of now that i know of will determine with more driving ... one question about thermostat ... i had two options--->185 dgrees or 195 ... i got the 185 cause it was stock but which would be better? was worried alittle cause new with the rotary but i knew i could figure a waterpump out ... back to purrin by the afternoon, and i wrapped it out around 6 rpms on my test drive and was very smooth, i was impressed i guess you could say <still the newbie :)>was the 12a by the way in my repu <daily drive>. ..
really thinking about header and maybe other things too .. you guyz got me going now ....! but overall i need a smooth dependable ride which it is as of now ... very thankful for that.and appreciate all you as well, thought back to here all day today .... and still doing some hunting for other trucks ... i know they're there and i will find them ...

repu hunter*

<arkansas originals>

       
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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted June 06, 2004 07:46 AM

13b curiosity ...

was thinking about the idea of getting a 13b or original back in my 75, what kind of project would this be? motor/trans right? i am wanting to say the motor/trans is 85 12a/5speed .. what would a motor cost?


tobanybe*
____________
revin secret 7*

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted June 07, 2004 09:27 AM

All Depends...

...a motor can cost from as little as next-to-nothing for the junker you happen to find, and succeed at rescuscitating for a time, to several thousands for a properly built motor with all the right parts new, or well within spec. ...
Beware the fast talking 'experts' who have not been in business too long, or really don't know/love rotaries, etc., etc., etc.!
If I were prepared to throw down for a fresh build, my money would go to one of the top rotorshops that's been around for many a year.
That's not to say there aren't some good backyard shadetree rotorbros. out there... just depends on your good judgement, and their experience and expertise.
Take a long look at ebaymotors for what's 'out there' on the 'net in used motor land...

       
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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted June 07, 2004 09:11 PM

motor thoughts ....

i have seen people frown at "12a-in" the repu. is it from the not being original or the being smaller size engine? or both?.whats the big difference in the two?besides the .01 diff.r all rotories JDM>?maybe get one down the road that'll fit right in thats rebuilt nicely,maybe with some power added.r we talking $1k-2k?or more.

<still looking for some timing tech advice for procedures, i'm undrstanding alitlle on it day-by-day,and looking @ the 85 breakerless system on the 12a ... what i think i am needing to do is line the motor and pull the distibutor and reline by the "tally" marks on bottom of distibuter ... sound familer? i just didn't wanna pull and not see a marking and get even worse on that.and what does pluging the vac. line do?i was told to go by the distributer main lead/trail and i read by the front rotor lead/trail ... which is right? < determined to get this running like new>


____________
revin secret 7*

       
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Klaus43


Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
posted June 08, 2004 10:23 AM

That was me...

...frowning on 12A'ing a REPU. That's 'cause the trucks are heavy enough to warrant the 'big block', originally came with 'em, and that's what belongs in 'em. Why down-size, when you could upgrade for about the same $$$-$$$$ ?
What can I say, I'd just never do it. That's not to say that you shouldn't keep yours going, and drive the piss outta it--definitely do that!
RE: Electronic ignition-- Much is to be read on this topic in other, older threads... check it out! Basically, you want the version that has the ignitors right on the dizzy--unless you convert further, to, say, the 'DLDFIS', or whatever that acronym is... Just check the position of the rotor, as well as the relative location of the dizzy's set screw, prior to pulling, and you should be OK. Just remember to not turn the key until you have the replacement in! Plugging the vacuum line will merely prevent any vacuum advance from affecting timing.
**You may fing the need to modify your alternator bracket slightly to accommodate the electronic dizzy.** (Or mount it a bit differently...)
BTW, slightly bent dizzy shafts are apparently rather common in rotaries... so don't be surprised if your timing doesn't stabilize as much as you'd like, if you're dealing with a well-used part. :)

       
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tobanybe


Revvin Up
Posts: 80
posted June 08, 2004 04:18 PM

i agree with you all the way ...

don't know why i thought u r in mich. <klaus> my bad ....:(

i think original or stronger should be the basis ... i am all over this area so i thik i am gonna devote my next future goals into snaggin as many rotaries i can here .. i know of a few here and there for cheap and i will know others running around with em.I would like to get a reliable rx7 late 80's early 90's fuel inj. to drive daily and race the pipes off of it ... cause i'm itchin to so bad and do not want to in the repu .. to nice.. to unique to me. what all do people here generally look for if not everything? i guess the more i have the more i can learn and be able to not worry about transportation ... i am in the rotary already so i will stick to it for a while ...

and i just wanna make a point--->this meeting place is the sh** ... no telling where my repu's would be if it wasn't for this "aura" here.!thanks


       
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