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Thread: Electronic dizzy swap
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted February 12, 2007 05:29 PM |
 Edited By: mwpayne1 on 12 Feb 2007 17:38 |
Still lost
Just got a nice wiring harness from an 84 RX7.
In looking at the pics that a few nice folks sent, it looks to me like the positive pins from the ignitors go straight to the positive of the coils, L and T. No sweat.
BUT, I only see one negative wire from the harness (again, I'm looking at the pictures) going to the leading negative of one coil. The other coil's leading (-) post is connected to a 'mystery' wire going into the truck harness. Additionally, the + of the trailing coil has a 'mystery' wire connected with the + of the ignitor.
I need a bit more clairification, if someone gets a chance.
Thanks!
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted February 12, 2007 05:36 PM |
Edited By: mwpayne1 on 12 Feb 2007 17:37
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In hooking up the coils,is it as straightforward as connecting the ignitors to coils, leading and trailing, just straight + to +, and - to -, then connecting switched 12V directly to the + side of both coils?
Not sure which wire is for tach, either. Could someone (again) clarify? The pics really helped, but it looks like theres a couple of 'mystery' wires that I can't figure out where they're coming from.
Once I get this done, I'm going to do a writeup called
"Dumbass's guide to electronic distributor upgrade" :)
Thanks!
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tom93r1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted February 13, 2007 11:04 AM |
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Thats pretty much it. In my REPU there are 2 wires for 12V power. One is only powered when cranking and the other is only on in the run position of the key. I just ran both of them to the +.
There is very little to get them working. I forgot which the tach hooks to, probably doesnt matter which - you put it on.
quote:
In hooking up the coils,is it as straightforward as connecting the ignitors to coils, leading and trailing, just straight + to +, and - to -, then connecting switched 12V directly to the + side of both coils?
Not sure which wire is for tach, either. Could someone (again) clarify? The pics really helped, but it looks like theres a couple of 'mystery' wires that I can't figure out where they're coming from.
Once I get this done, I'm going to do a writeup called
"Dumbass's guide to electronic distributor upgrade" :)
Thanks!
____________
'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted February 13, 2007 12:30 PM |
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Tach is driven off the...
...trailing ignition (coil). Don't let that '84 harness mess you up! It's really as simple as it gets... another close look at the detail pics I sent you of that original REPU plug you need to connect the two wires into, I'm guessing might help --provided you make sure about the wire(s) that change colors due to splicing-- (?)
*Beware of aged wiring with potential breaks/partial/intermittent shorts hidden within the insulation! This has happened... Also, you might want to go over connections where applicable with some 'De-Ox-It' type electronic contact cleaner (a wee droplet does wonders!), and/or a wire brush... (also *very* important on any and all grounds!!!)
Best, Klaus
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted February 13, 2007 12:49 PM |
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Good news/bad news
Ok, I came home this afternoon early to take advantage of a 60 degree day. One day only, because tomorrow it's supposed to be 25 degrees.
Anyhow, I hooked up the battery and went to crankin'. After about 8 cranks it actually fired up! Ran well, too. Won't run without choke out. I'd say that's bad gas from sitting two years.
Bad News. It's been a while since I fired up a rotary that's been sitting with oil in the chambers. I forgot I put it there when I stored it. The SMOKE was UNBELIEVEABLE. My house plus three neighbors houses just diappeared. While standing in the yard enjoying the show, I realized the truck was still halfway backed into the garage. Furnace also had kicked on. OMG. Ran inside..complete zero visiblity.
As of this moment I have all windows open and fans on high. There will be HELL to pay if "She Who MUST Be Obeyed' comes home and theres still a stink in the house
She'll be home in 1 hour..please pray for me.
Otherwise, I'd say it works. Tach seemed to fluctuate for a while, then did nothing. I'll worry about that later.
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted February 13, 2007 02:03 PM |
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Uh-Oh....
Ordinarily, I stay away from chemical remedies like 'Febreeze'... but, it sounds like you might want to go get a bunch of it, or similar, immediately! Got an ionizer type air purifier? Run it! Keep ventilating, too...and burn some nice incense. You might also want to immediately strip and wash any bedding, towels, clothes, etc, that got exposed... Change your furnace filter, *now*! Would roses a day in advance help?
Then it's a call to the folks who clean your ducts.
Glad she's running, tho ! When it's all debugged and fully, freshly tuned, and ready to drive 50 + spirited miles: get your hands on a can of AmsOil Power Foam, and spray it into your running, warmed up engine, 'til it dies, and then fill your carb up with the rest of the can. Don your best respirator, and fire up after foam dissipates... (watch out for *that* cloud!!!) Kepp 'er running, and immediately drive for 50 or more miles. It will keep improving for the first 100+ you drive... (!)
--Do not attempt until *fully* functional, *perfectly* tuned, and ready to go.--
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted February 13, 2007 02:55 PM |
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That amsoils good, I've used it before in my past 7's.
The engine on this truck 'supposedly' is a rather fresh rebuild, less than 2K, I was told.
Gotta get the neighbor with his timing light next time it's warm enough to take outside. Plugs, wires, all fluids, etc are new.
Plugs might be questionable now due to the oil, though. I noticed the ammeter didn't move, either. No idea if that ever worked.
All little fixes for a later day. Next, to complete striping, wheel painting, interior put-together.
I was considering some sort of soundproofing on the interior since it's stripped. Anyone done that?
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Brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted February 13, 2007 05:23 PM |
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sound deadening
i put 1/8" high density foam above the headliner. really helped. on second thought i'd try thicker, like 3/16 - 1/4"
dynamat is great stuff but pricey
i did por-15 the floor and doors, that helped a lot too.
more high density foam under the carpeting.
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted February 13, 2007 09:34 PM |
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I've got practically the entire truck coated in 'ZERORUST'. Between that and several coats of epoxy primer before the paint, hopefully it'll last a while.
I've been looking at a product called 'second skin'. Got rave reviews and cheaper than dynamat. Anyone heard of/used?
Maybe Brad's suggestions are just as good and cheaper..?
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fift7
Newbie
Posts: 9
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posted February 16, 2007 08:24 PM |
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mwpayne when is the dumbass guide coming out as i am hoping to get to my ignition in the next month or two, and if you could make it as simple as possible as i will be making the wiring harness from scratch.
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted February 23, 2007 04:57 PM |
Edited By: mwpayne1 on 23 Feb 2007 16:59
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Finally got it out today for a serious start n' run. Fired up after 8-10 cranks, had to keep choke on to keep 'er running.
Understandable, since I had bad gas mixed with 10 gallons of fresh, combined with chevron cleaner stuff.
Took her out, drove ok, seemed to bog when I gave her gas, low power. Idle quite smooth, though.
My neighbor (piston motor guru, body repair/paint genius), took one look and said my distributor was off a tooth.
He said he could tell by the sound of the engine...???.
He pulled the dist, moved it a tooth one way or another, put it back, started (with ONE crank), ran wonderfully. Nice, smooth power like God intended all rotaries to have. Tach still doesn't work at all, got the wires like Klaus's pictures. I'll figure it out eventually.
Everyone needs to have a neighbor like that. Except now his pissed at me because I nicked the paint. He's actually going to mask it off and re-spray!
Anyhow, if I can get the damn exhaust pipe to stay on the muffler, it'll be done, pics coming soon!
Thanks to everyone for the help, especially to klaus, you always go above and beyond.
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted February 24, 2007 10:21 AM |
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You're too kind...
I think I've pissed off plenty of folks with my tendency to try too hard/go over the top, sometimes. Glad if I could help -- but you did the work! Credit where it is due: Thank Charles (jfaplanet) for the parts manual and other written documentation he made available to me. ;)
Glad you got things (mostly) worked out. An electrical connection in need of cleaning (especially a ground...), or perhaps an 'iffy' old wire within a seemingly intact insulator *could* be why your tach isn't moving. Another test is trying the wire on your leading, instead of trailing. Is your trailing ignition working properly? Then there's always the tach/cluster itself... most likely a poor connection, somewhere, though.
RE: Choke required to keep running, after fully warmed up: If you can rule out carb. settings and cleanliness throughout (could be a blocked idle jet/passage?)--nevermind the aged fuel-- do a triple-check for any possible vacuum leaks, however minor. All those fittings need to be in use, or capped/plugged securely. Another item to check: Does your dizzy advance and retard properly, or is it sticking? Easy to watch what happens with your timing light, while someone revs and releases...
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted February 24, 2007 06:05 PM |
Edited By: mwpayne1 on 24 Feb 2007 18:06
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The engine runs like new now since Bill moved the distributor, revs smooth, I'd happily put a Bottle of Nitro Glycerine on the air cooler..I've never seen a rotary idle so smooth. No choke needed after warmup, too.
Not sure which one of those two wires coming out of that plug in your pictures is the tach..I'll maybe swap them, see what happens. I did see a ground from the trans housing unattached, probably goes to the engine block. I usually like to run one from trans to engine to body frame. That was a pretty big deal in my 88 turbovert (man, I miss that car).
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troyjmueller
Revvin Up
Posts: 55
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posted February 27, 2007 10:48 PM |
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Electronic dizzy swap.
All of my RX-7 Engines & Drivers have the newer electronic distributor. I have allways set the engine to the leading tdc via the pulley, then alligned the punch mark on the gear (90 degrees from the dowel pin) with the allignent mark on the distributor shaft/housing, and insert distributor into engine. Take care to not turn distributor body separately from rotor while installing, and it sometimes helps to position everything a few degrees counter to the rotation produced when the gears mesh.
Every one that I have seen has the igniters pointing to the front right and rear right of the engine, with the point of the V pointing towards the left fender.
I *think* that the front igniter is for the leading coil, and the second ignitor is the trailing. Have you seen the drawings of the conversion harness (plugs in to the 79 style plug), and the coil-igniter wiring diagram
(+ coil A to + igniter A, + Coil B to + igniter B, - Coil A to - Igniter A, then to Condenser & Ground, Coil - B to Igniter - B, then to Condenser & Ground.) That is my *rusty* recollection, though the condenser may actually go to the positive igniters. Anywhoo, the condenser gets a wire to each igniter (same polarity), and then bolts to the block. The coils get full 12V on start & run, and the voltage is reduced to the coil via the resistors with the mechanical distributor. As I recall, the stem of the "T" (|) on the igniter terminal is positive, and the cross bar (-) is the negative.
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xp882
Redlining
Posts: 294
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posted April 02, 2007 03:41 PM |
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klaus42 can u send me those pictures? working out problems with my elec diz swap.. thanks awright84@verizon.net
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klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted April 03, 2007 09:42 AM |
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Will do...
...but, perhaps you or Mike could also post them here, as a Community Service, perhaps?
I would, but I've yet to overcome whatever has always kept me from getting pics up on this site...
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted April 04, 2007 05:54 AM |
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Oops, I sent them too....
I'll see about getting them up here on the ol' forum!
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