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Thread: stalls at idle
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boyotoyo
1st Gear
Posts: 33
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posted July 12, 2010 06:26 PM |
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stalls at idle
I have only had my Repu for a few months so still learning about them as I go. The truck is totally stock, with the original Hitachi 4bbl. carb.
Anyway, ran into my first problem the other night. Whenever I have to stop or even just slow down to turn a corner, the RPM's drop off and the engine stalls. It starts good with the choke out and runs down the road good, but whenever you let off the throttle it dies.
I tried playing with the idle adjust screw but it didn't make much of a difference. Could it be time for a rebuild???
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EricRyan
Revvin Up
Posts: 61
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posted July 12, 2010 08:59 PM |
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quote:
I have only had my Repu for a few months so still learning about them as I go. The truck is totally stock, with the original Hitachi 4bbl. carb.
Anyway, ran into my first problem the other night. Whenever I have to stop or even just slow down to turn a corner, the RPM's drop off and the engine stalls. It starts good with the choke out and runs down the road good, but whenever you let off the throttle it dies.
I tried playing with the idle adjust screw but it didn't make much of a difference. Could it be time for a rebuild???
Sounds like a fuel problem IMO. Especially since you mention a stall when turning. Maybe fuel filter and/or pump?
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dhood
Hauling
Posts: 134
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posted July 12, 2010 09:40 PM |
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Stalling at idle isn't really one of the rebuild criteria. When I first got my truck I used to think everything that went wrong with it was the rotor seals or casings and would run down to the mazda shop for a compression check, but there is very little to go wrong there. Have you tried the idle switch? Just hook up an ohm meter to the leads and operate the throttle by hand while checking for continuity (engine off). These switches are very hard to come by, I'm running on my last one. If its that, try to get one off a carbed rx-7 at the junkyard. Good luck.
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Klaus42
Rotorhead
Posts: 1877
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posted July 13, 2010 09:13 AM |
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Whether or not your idle switch is functional, or you intend to retain it, it would be a really good idea to verify not only that your carb.is spotless inside (don't miss the two little cylindrical fuel inlet screens!), and that your fuel pressure is sufficient and consistent.
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xp882
Redlining
Posts: 294
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posted July 13, 2010 03:59 PM |
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Absolutjh
1st Gear
Posts: 37
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posted July 13, 2010 05:01 PM |
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Check your vacuum lines. Get the engine up to temp and then spray starting fluid, in short blasts, around the engine bay. If you hear the engine spped increase you know you have a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak, or loose vacuum line will definately cause the engine to stall at idle, and could also be affected in cornering.
This will be very easy test to complete.
Best of luck to you.
____________
JOSHUA HAYES
1974 REPU, w/ Pineapple
Racing Bridge Port 13B and
RX-7 5 Speed conversion.
2001 BMW E38 740i Sport
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted July 13, 2010 07:43 PM |
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Vacuum leak check is good idea. I suggest check ignition timing. May need to adjust idle air screw, big screw on drivers side of carb. It's pretty simple to remove the top off the carb, pull out and clean fuel jets. Good luck.
____________
'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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boyotoyo
1st Gear
Posts: 33
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posted July 15, 2010 01:54 PM |
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Well, thanks to everyone for your suggestions. The truck is now running back to the way it was before these stalling episodes happened.
The idle switch checked out okay. I think it could have very well been a vacuum leak as one on of the smaller hoses was loose and needed snapped backed down.
I also shot everything down well with carb cleaner and readjusted idle screw one more time. It holds idle now so we will just see how it works out the next time I go for a longer drive.
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