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Thread: electrical system modernization
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jm1fd
Revvin Up
Posts: 83
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posted March 11, 2012 01:18 PM |
 Edited By: jm1fd on 11 Mar 2012 13:22 |
Electrical System Modernization
I'm in the midst of straightening up and modernizing the electrical system on my truck. Thought I'd share my plans here. Feedback and tips are welcome.
Phase One: (Get the stock wiring safe, clean and functioning properly) Currently working on removing all the emissions related wires from the factory harness, and patching any spots where the insulation may have gotten nicked. Some previous owner put an electronic ignition on it, and just kinda hacked and spliced the factory wiring until it ran right. Complete fuster-cluck of wiring. I believe they also used a '74 or '75 ignition switch on it, and had to hack the wiring a bit to get it to work properly, and in the process didn't fuse the wire to the wipers, which then proceeded to short out and smoke itself. Also, at some point in the truck's history the bundle of wires leading down to the emission computer had a small fire, so those are being removed, and any damaged wires are being replaced. All soldered connections and heat shrink. Going to use this stuff https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4011 to wrap the harness when I'm done.
Phase Two (Accommodate a high output alternator, electric fans, and other high current devices):Under hood, I'm likely going to use a power distribution module from a 90s Protege. The output from my FD alternator will go directly to this module, and a wire from the terminal on the starter will go into this module as well. This module will take the place of the stock fusible link box, and will provide numerous fuse slots for high current draw items such as electric fans, a fuel pump, etc. It also has 4 slots for mini-fuses, and two slots for relays. I'm thinking I'll use the two relays for the headlights, or possibly leave them for future use for a fuel pump relay and an EFI computer.
Phase Three: (Ignition switch, fuse modernization and consolidation)
In the cab, I'm thinking I'll use one of these:
http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/46345/MINI%20FUSE%20AND%20MICRO%20RELAY%20RTMR/
A relay will be added for each of the three circuits on the ignition switch (accessory, ignition, start). The wires from the ignition switch will then just go down to the coil wire on the appropriate relay to energize it, thus reducing the current demands on the ignition switch to that of a handful of relays. The switched output of the relay will then go over to one or more fuses on the other side of the box. The intent of all this is to get all the low current fuses in one place, and to take the load off the ignition switch. I will probably also switch to a Courier/B1800 ignition switch since they're still available new at a reasonable cost. The wiring isn't compatible with the stock harness, but in this phase the stock wiring to the ignition switch will be tossed anyways, so why not?
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jm1fd
Revvin Up
Posts: 83
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posted March 11, 2012 01:44 PM |
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Phase 1 Pictures
Here's all the wiring I've removed from the harness so far. All emissions stuff, with the exception of some of the wires related to the automatic transmission that Mazda apparently put on every truck regardless of transmission type.
This is the harness as it currently stands. I pulled it all through the hole in the firewall so I could access everything and take it apart where needed. Almost done, just need to replace the smoked windshield wiper motor wiring, wire the tach to the trailing coil, and wrap it.
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted March 11, 2012 09:27 PM |
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I upgraded my electrical system during a frame off restoration of my truck a couple years ago. Intent was to keep wiring close as possible to factory wiring diagram while isolating amperage to ignition and combo switches.
Eneded up using relay fuse box from 1990 Lexus. Disassembled box and modified circuits. Set up as 12 VDC buss with 8 fuse protected relays. I removed the old glass fuses in the engine compartment and mounted the new relay box on drivers kick panel. The factory diagram has the engine electrical and fuel pump fed from the same circuit. Changed this and had each one fed from dedicated fuse and realay. All wiring out from ignition and combo switches triggers/energizes coil of relays and contacts feed system. Very happy with mod. My fuel pump does not change pitch when blimkers are on. Will probably look into LED lights for dash and turn signals. It was alot of work. Was using 3 different wiring diagrams.
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jm1fd
Revvin Up
Posts: 83
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posted March 12, 2012 10:48 AM |
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I'd love to see pics of your setup if you've got some. I looked at OEM fuse boxes while at the junkyard...everything seemed like overkill...I don't need 50 fuse slots.
I read some stuff online about a 1st generation Neon fuse/relay box being reasonably simple, but I couldn't find one at the junkyard last time I went.
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mwpayne1
Redlining
Posts: 239
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posted April 03, 2012 05:10 PM |
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quote:
I'm in the midst of straightening up and modernizing the electrical system on my truck. Thought I'd share my plans here. Feedback and tips are welcome.
Phase One: (Get the stock wiring safe, clean and functioning properly) Currently working on removing all the emissions related wires from the factory harness, and patching any spots where the insulation may have gotten nicked. Some previous owner put an electronic ignition on it, and just kinda hacked and spliced the factory wiring until it ran right. Complete fuster-cluck of wiring. I believe they also used a '74 or '75 ignition switch on it, and had to hack the wiring a bit to get it to work properly, and in the process didn't fuse the wire to the wipers, which then proceeded to short out and smoke itself. Also, at some point in the truck's history the bundle of wires leading down to the emission computer had a small fire, so those are being removed, and any damaged wires are being replaced. All soldered connections and heat shrink. Going to use this stuff https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4011 to wrap the harness when I'm done.
Phase Two (Accommodate a high output alternator, electric fans, and other high current devices):Under hood, I'm likely going to use a power distribution module from a 90s Protege. The output from my FD alternator will go directly to this module, and a wire from the terminal on the starter will go into this module as well. This module will take the place of the stock fusible link box, and will provide numerous fuse slots for high current draw items such as electric fans, a fuel pump, etc. It also has 4 slots for mini-fuses, and two slots for relays. I'm thinking I'll use the two relays for the headlights, or possibly leave them for future use for a fuel pump relay and an EFI computer.
Phase Three: (Ignition switch, fuse modernization and consolidation)
In the cab, I'm thinking I'll use one of these:
http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/46345/MINI%20FUSE%20AND%20MICRO%20RELAY%20RTMR/
A relay will be added for each of the three circuits on the ignition switch (accessory, ignition, start). The wires from the ignition switch will then just go down to the coil wire on the appropriate relay to energize it, thus reducing the current demands on the ignition switch to that of a handful of relays. The switched output of the relay will then go over to one or more fuses on the other side of the box. The intent of all this is to get all the low current fuses in one place, and to take the load off the ignition switch. I will probably also switch to a Courier/B1800 ignition switch since they're still available new at a reasonable cost. The wiring isn't compatible with the stock harness, but in this phase the stock wiring to the ignition switch will be tossed anyways, so why not?
Can you please elaborate on the switch wiring, I'd like to know exactly which wires I should attach to the relay, etc. I'm betting the one that gets quite warm would be a candidate.
Good write up, thanks for the help!
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