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Thread: Rotary ignition systems
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Uncle-Jim
Revvin Up
Posts: 64
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posted November 06, 2003 01:18 PM |
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1980 DFLIDIS
Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the info about the electronics ahead of the J105 ignitors. I thought thats what it was doing. In my Rx-2 they did the same thing only with points. It worked ok if everything was just right, otherwise, it was a nightmare. The leading might be retarded by ten deg. and/or the trailing were not lit at all.
I'm going to try the 80 set up and drive the ignitors directly from the pickups. That way I can keep the plugs lit all the time.
Somebody gave me a handful of the J105 ignitors and they work on one side of the 81-up dizzys, but they are longer, this way I can use some of them.
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Uncle Jim
72 Rx-2 Show Car; '77 REPU (250K & goin' strong) 2 - '76 Cosmo's
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted November 06, 2003 10:25 PM |
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I've got a gutted J-105 on the leading position of my dizzy. It makes an easy pass-through for the pickup signal to go over to the leading ignitors.
Yeah, I don't know if a J-105 would fit on the trailing side.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Uncle-Jim
Revvin Up
Posts: 64
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posted November 13, 2003 12:15 PM |
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Inverted Coils ?
I am just about ready to hook up my '80 DLIDFIS into my REPU. I'm using the two '80 coils for my leading, and I wonder if I can run these inverted. It would make for a real short, direct connx to the leading plugs.
However, I've seen some coils leak out oil if up side down.
Any experience?
TIA, Jim
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Uncle Jim
72 Rx-2 Show Car; '77 REPU (250K & goin' strong) 2 - '76 Cosmo's
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted November 13, 2003 12:19 PM |
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If they were gonna leak upside-down...
...wouldn't they also be in danger of doing so when mounted on their sides, as they are in the sevens?
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Uncle-Jim
Revvin Up
Posts: 64
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posted November 13, 2003 01:01 PM |
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Inverted Coils ?
Excellent Point!
I wonder why I didn't remember that? I think I'll set these coils upside down and leave them overnight and see what happens.
Thanks.
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Uncle Jim
72 Rx-2 Show Car; '77 REPU (250K & goin' strong) 2 - '76 Cosmo's
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted November 13, 2003 10:21 PM |
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I didn't need to invert mine. Have you seen any pictures of my three coils where the third one is held by a long hose clamp? Cheap and effective, and they're all up side up.
I just recently picked up an FC leading coil to try with my MSD. The MSD is a 6AL, so it's got a rev limiter. Since I want to take advantage of the rev limiter on a high-reving engine, the FC coil seems like a much better coil to use because it's got dual outputs with only one input. That beats having to split the already low amperage CID output into two coils, as is commonly done on rotaries. Heh, the ATF treatment is also commonly done, even though it can do more harm than good. Goes to show you.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted November 14, 2003 09:06 AM |
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I only poured ATF in once...
..and that was to try and bust loose a seized motor... I'd never put it down a runner! AmsOil Power Foam does the clean-out trick for those...
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted November 14, 2003 04:53 PM |
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ATF will never find its way into any of my engines, running or not. It's some nasty stuff.
I picked up an FC trailing coil today. I saw a wiring diagram in a thread earlier today showing how to hook an FC leading ignitor to an FC trailing coil. I'm going to try my luck.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Uncle-Jim
Revvin Up
Posts: 64
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posted November 17, 2003 08:29 AM |
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DiFLIDS running
Guys,
I installed my system this weekend, finally got it timed and running. One of the J105's failed right off, so we'll see how reliable they are.
I did discover that the polarity of the SG signal pins is important. I had the polarity of the two leading J105's reversed, and I was really puzzled for a while why the two leading pugs had such different timings since they were driven by the same trigger.
I finally reversed the pins on one, and everything jumped into place, the engine smoothed out and the timing was perfect as advertised.
For the pasr several years, I've been keeping accurate mileage records on the truck, so we'll see what efficiency's the Diflids shows in the next few months.
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Uncle Jim
72 Rx-2 Show Car; '77 REPU (250K & goin' strong) 2 - '76 Cosmo's
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted November 17, 2003 12:24 PM |
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Great! Let us know if it improves.
I can understand how it would be easy to reverse the wires on the J-105 ignitors because they aren't hooked directly to the pickups like the J-109 ignitors are. I'm glad you figured it out.
Did you hear a difference in the idle? Mine sounded more like a 2nd gen or later RX-7. Of course my exhaust isn't as quiet as stock either.
By the way, I'd like to clear up some confusion on your part. The letters are in this order: DLIDFIS which should help if you ever need to perform a google search. I doubt you'd come up with anything using diflids.
Hey klaus, I bet MMO would have worked better on your seized engine because it's thinner and can seep past carbon deposits in the apex seal slots more easily. It also has active solvents which I've seen in action while dribbling out of my 20B. Don't mind me, I'm trying to learn as much about MMO as I can, and passing the info on to others.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted November 17, 2003 03:38 PM |
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Back when it was happening...
...ATF seemed to be the thing to try. That motor might have been seized for reasons other than carbon... I held on to the core, so one day it'll perhaps reveal something.
Got it broke loose, and spewing smoke down the road while under tow, but never running... (back when)... True 'nuf, MMO might've been a better 'solvent' to try.
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Tom93R1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted December 14, 2003 12:07 PM |
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I dont know if this is a good or a bad thing, but in screwing around with my ignition timing to get the REPU to pass smog I somehow managed to get the distributor turned 180 degrees and because of the DLIDFIS wasted spark on the leading plugs it still ran. It was pretty weak but it did still run. It took me awhile to figure out what was going on, before DLIDFIS it would just not have run at all and I would have easily figured it out. FWIW, with DLIDFIS the REPU runs better with no distributor cap than it does with the trailing coil and plugs hooked up. It is just a little strange when removing your cap and rotor makes your vehicle run better.
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'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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Jeff20B
Moderator
Posts: 661
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posted December 14, 2003 02:02 PM |
 Edited By: Jeff20B on 14 Dec 2003 14:09 |
That's interesting. It means your trailing plugs are firing into the incoming AF mixture.
For a while, it felt like disabling trailing on my REPU made it run better. Then I hooked up a switch and turned trailing on and off while driving. It made no difference.
I'm going to trust what I've learned. I won't run trailing on my 20B. The leading plugs will have 0º and 180º sparks or dual leading sparks, or whatever I usually call it. :) Of course each spark event will be spaced 120º between the rotors. I'm so close to getting it running now.
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'74 REPU
'76 Cosmo
'77 MG Midget 13B
'81 RX-7
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Tom93R1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted February 05, 2004 02:15 PM |
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So lately my REPU hasnt been running really smooth. The other day I was playing some more with the timing and noticed that the leading ignition seems to break up at high RPM. I disconnected the DLIDFIS and set it back to stock except with the ignitor remotely located and the ignition break-up was resolved. Now it Is it possible for the hall effect sensor on the distributor to get week? It is as though it cannot supply enough power to run 2 ignitors. I am thinking I may try SLIDFIS and see if I have better results with 1 ignitor running 2 coils. Anybody else ever see this? Is it possible my distributor just has seen better years? Or maybe the reduced signal by splitting the lines is more succeptible to interference?
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'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted November 23, 2005 05:48 PM |
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Let's revive the DLIDIFS topic once more... I was at seven stock and scored on a new FC leading coil. It has 2 connections for plug wires, dual coil. Has anyone wired this into a REPU and how did you? Thanks, Sparky.
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted January 02, 2006 03:17 PM |
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HELLO, I really would like to wire in my new dual coil. Somebody please respond to this. Sparky
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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Tom93R1
Redlining
Posts: 458
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posted January 18, 2006 01:51 PM |
Edited By: Tom93R1 on 18 Jan 2006 14:14
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I suppose you could just pull the leading coil and swap it in there. The FC coil has a built in ignitor you can remove and you end up with just a coil with 2 plug wire outlets and a + and - connection. Just replace the + - from the old coil and bypass the distributor.
I cant imagine why this wouldnt work unless the coil requires a different signal than the original.
edit: I remember reading the whole thread some time back and there was something on 2nd gen leading coils in there.
____________
'74 lawn-green
4-port 13b
Weber 48DCO
Racing Beat Header
Magnaflow
resonator/amplifier
really loud!
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sparky
Redlining
Posts: 299
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posted February 24, 2006 08:33 PM |
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I finally converted to DLIDFIS. Had a little trouble at first. After the change I drove the truck pretty hard and noticed power was not much different and engine did not seem to wind up any faster. It actually felt like the timing was way retarded. I checked it today and found that the remote mounted ignitor for the rear leading plug was bad. Replaced the ignitor and noticed the engine still had ignition miss at idle. Connected timing light and noticed both leading coils had same ignition break up during misfire....Hall sensor? I had a spare distributor laying around so I took it apart and cleaned it up. Installed and set timing. The igntion miss is gone and I cant believe how smooth it idles. I can't remember how many times I pulled the top off the carb to clean bleeds and jets. Anyway, took the truck out again and drove it hard. Holy crap.... It's never pulled so hard. I can't wait to put a LSD in the rear end. Single wheel burnouts suck. Thanks Jeff for all the info for the DLIDFIS conversion, Sparky.
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'77 REPU
Stock 6-port
T-2 tranny
Weber IDA 48
Alum Flywheel
3rd gen Torsen in rear end.
DLDFIS ignition
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