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Thread: my thoughts on rust prevention...oh, a bit long....
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nwaco
Redlining
Posts: 407
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posted January 20, 2003 05:23 PM |
 Edited By: nwaco on 20 Jan 2003 17:29 |
My thoughts on Rust prevention...Oh, and a bit long....
More from the "Thick black mat thread...
I believe the best method to use for potecting against rust and corrosion depends on the level of disassembly one is willing to undertake. Acceptable access is the real issue. Since many a truck are operational, taking out wire runs, brake tubing, engines exhaust, etc., is not a reasonable expectation or desire. But, with that said, treating accessible areas while leaving inaccessible areas to continue to deteriorate makes no sense. So.. We must approach the issue by assuming one is willing to obtain access. If so, here is a process I believe (in my experience anyway) one must embark upon..
1. Clean the area of all dirt, debris, and loose rust. Dirt and debris left against a metal surface is a excellent incubator for rust to begin. This can be accomplished by virtue of pressure washing, media blasting, wire brush or wheel....whatever. This is the labor part.
2. Clean chemically the area as in solvent wash or rinse.
3. Verify no loose rust pieces are present or trapped between surfaces.
4. Ensure entire area is dry through, and use a penetrating type rust converter on all the seams ensuring that it is soaked up into the seams until they don't or won't hold any more and wipe up excess converter. Follow instructions on container as each product may have different process steps. I personally like SEM Rust-mort because its viscosity is that which allows it to "wick" into a seam by capillary action and convert the rust between surfaces. Products like POR-15, while excellent at converting open surfaces and sealing them against moisture penetration, are very poor at "wicking" into seams. They are great at covering and converting large open areas.
5. I then use POR-15 on open areas.
6. Depending on whether area worked is interior or exterior, apply a topcoat as final barrier against moisture. Inside I use a quality epoxy primer and outside(bottom areas only) I use the same covered by Marine "below the waterline" epoxy enamel. I use it, because it is cheaper and of usually higher quality than auto paints and it is made to withstand the scraping off of barnacles. Show me an auto paint that can take that. The exterior body proper gets a standard auto paint scheme.
7. Apply a corrosion protection compound to exterior bottom. I use aircraft products available at Aircraft Spruce. They shed moisture and can be readily re-applied to continue protection.
8. Last and most of all not least is periodic inspection to touch up any chips or dings as they are the seeds of future problems
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted January 21, 2003 07:30 AM |
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Thanks for the (professional!) input/opinion! "Wicking" converter will come in very handy... and marine enamel just makes too much sense.
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted March 15, 2003 10:42 AM |
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Just pulled off the hood trim on my 'driver'...
...had no idea how much rust was hiding there. Even wicking 'ospho' might not be enough to deal with that front lower edge. Several repaints by previous owners, and no one ever bothered to pull four screws... and I was just as ignorant, until now! AArgh!
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banzaitoyta
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted March 16, 2003 07:27 AM |
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I would recommend Zero-Rust over POR-15. I have had a negative experience with POR-15 not performing as advertised.
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 26, 2003 11:05 AM |
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I'm doing more rust removal on my repu. Took the drivers fender off, stripped it down to bare metal and got the rust off with Por-15 Metal Ready.
nwaco, where can I get a good epoxy primer? I like the durability and good sealing of epoxy and an epoxy primer is what I'd like to use.
After primering and filling a few rust holes, I want to prevent corrosion on the inside of the fender. The factory sprayed some rubberized undercoating on there to prevent stone chipping. I bought some similar stuff from auto parts store. My thought is to spray that ontop of epoxy primer and leave it. would that be alright?
I'd also like to grind all the rubber undercoating goo off the fenderwell, Metal Ready it, expoxy primer and spray rubberized undercoating on there too.
Sound like a good method? Or should I paint over the fresh rubberized coating to add another protective layer?
____________
-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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banzaitoyta
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted March 26, 2003 11:28 AM |
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Best Epoxy Primer is PPG DP-40 or DP-90, Good Stuff Wear a GOOD respirator though
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 26, 2003 11:40 AM |
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no spray gun
Unfortunately I don't have a compressor or spray gun. Any good epoxy primers available that are aerosol or can brushed on?
What do you think of this stuff?
http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/products/anti-r.htm
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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banzaitoyta
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted March 26, 2003 12:15 PM |
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You can brush DP-40, I would use ero-rust instead of hammerrite
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 26, 2003 01:24 PM |
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Thanks!
Where can I buy PPG DP-40 or ero-rust? I looked online and can't find a seller.
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Klaus43
Rotorhead
Posts: 1259
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posted March 26, 2003 01:31 PM |
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Don't know about that, but...
...if you want to invest in a North brand respirator, I have "overkill" cartridges for those (o.g. vapors, dusts, mists, fumes, asbestos, radionucleides, radon daughters, etc.) that I'll make available for less than current retail.
Other than protection being essential, I'd want to make 110% sure any sorta primer is totally sealed. I think I'd wanna topcoat it...and let it cure really well!
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 26, 2003 01:51 PM |
Edited By: brad on 26 Mar 2003 13:54
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banzaitoyta
1st Gear
Posts: 22
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posted March 26, 2003 02:37 PM |
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www.zero-rust.com
www.zerorust.com
One of those sites has mail-order
Any auto-body supply shp that carries PPG products will have DP-40 Or I can buy it here for you and ship
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brad
Rotorhead
Posts: 1672
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posted March 27, 2003 03:24 PM |
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I took the drivers fender off and ground the asphalt undercoating off the inside of the fender, and the fender well. All Mazda did there was spray one coat of primer and one coat of undercoating. It did a very good job keeping rust off for the most parts. In a few areas a rock chipped it and caused some rust but no biggie.
That stuff protected against rocks MUCH better than the one coat of primer and one coat of paint, no clear, that Mazda sprayed the body color with.
I think I'll be OK spraying the bare metal with Metal Ready deruster by POR-15, then 2 coats Krylon Galvanizing primer, 2 coats black epoxy paint, and some spray asphalt undercoat to boot.
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-brad-
74 REPU Lawn Green
81 Rx-7 racecar. 12a J-
Bridge
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wankel_dreams
Redlining
Posts: 293
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posted April 01, 2003 01:06 AM |
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What do you all think of the electronic corrosion prevention systems? I know they are designed for new vehicles BEFORE they rust. How effective would they be at slowing the onslaught of existing rust?
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74 wankel panther
77 REPU
79 rx7
89 Vert
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